Remote starting in cold weather
 

Is anyone experiencing failed remote starts in cold weather (-20 degree's Celcius)?
Anytime the temp drops to this temperature my HHR won't remote start. The engine turns over once but the engine won't start. After 2 times it gives up completely as per the factory default of 2 remote starts.

Attachment 42426 to the site. Convert that to F for all us southerners :lol: . No problems with the remote here. So far coldest temp has been -15 F.

-20 celcius is -4 F

Heres a thread you might want to read: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...d+remote+start

I don't know, none of my rides have remote start. :sad:

No problem with my Ride, but I have an upgraded system.
Unlike the factory unit, I only have to push a button twice to start, doesn`t matter if doors are locked, open, what ever, with a 1000 ft. range.
I use it in winter and summer, noooo problems.

I've used my remote start several mornings with the temp. right around 0 degrees F with no problems. I did have a few problems with remote start before my fuel pump was repalced, but that only happened after the car was running and shut off for about an hour, and it wasn't in exteme cold.

Sorry cant help you on this one. If we ever get to -20 degree's Celcius I sure am not going to be going outside to start my car. Heck if it gets that cold here you can say hell froze over

after 2 years, first time...
 

I've own my '06 HHR for 2 years, and this morning in the first morning it didn't start with my remote. Temp outside is -32 C..

I remote started my car, and decided to give it 5 minutes to warm up.. Went outside, and noticed my rear brake light weren't on. As I approached the car, I heard a clicking noise. All the Dash lights were flickering on and off, and didn't stop until I put the key in, turned to the the start position, and turned it off..

I decided to plug in my block heater for the first time, and I'll check it in an hour or so.. I figured it's frozen.. Thought I'd share...

So what happened?

I have the same problem on my 2006. If I have the controls set to defrost, it starts and dies. I heard that there is a program update to delay the start of the air conditioning compressor and to give the oil pressure a few more seconds to come up to pressure. The dealer can't seem to find the TSB. If I set the control to floor heat so the AC compressor doesn't run, it starts and keeps running. Of course it doesn't defrost the windows which is why I start it remotely. It runs when I use the block heater but many places don't have receptacles. If I'm home, it's in the garage.

I have the same problem in the summer with the AC on and the car sits in the sun for a couple of hours.

It almost sounds to me that the idle is set too low and the compressor is stalling the engine. You might have the codes pulled to see if anything has been set in the idle control circuit. Have you noticed if the engine is idling at a lower than normal rpm, or is it idling roughly when cold?

Frenchy, sounds like the battery to me.
Get it load tested, canadian tire does it for free.
Its pretty cold here in toronto and mine works, but timmins - brrrrrrrr!

many correct words.
Add a few more. Perhaps they will be useful.
1. The battery must be at the peak of efficiency. Before the beginning of the cold season to test. If the old (can not accumulate the amount of electricity, which said the manufacturer) - to be replaced. If a workable - must be charged in full. This battery will give you the opportunity to run engine again and again for a long time. Not leave the battery is discharged in the cold - to die and not rise again, the new is expensive.
2. Motor oil - before the cold season, replacing the engine oil is not dependent on mileage. SYNTHETICS ONLY! liquid type, such as 5W - 30. Oil to buy only from trusted seller. And do not use a roll of toilet paper instead of the filter.
3. Before the beginning of the cold season to test the thermostat - should work like a Swiss watch.
4. Test the heater interior. Replace cabin filter. Clean the nostril under the hood.

All this is not too late to do the middle of winter.
My HHR is put in any cold (damn it, so as not to jinx it). Now in Yekaterinburg - 27 degrees Celsius during the day. At night the temperature drops to - 32 degrees Celsius (-26 F for southerner).

Yes! Here's another nuance. But the car is more fluid. I'm talking primarily about the transmission fluid. Besides - the oil in the shock absorbers, power steering fluid, grease. All this, too, freezes and thickens. The engine started and warmed up - you can start a movement. But the move - very slowly, gently, without sudden loads. Otherwise, the thickened liquid begins to cripple most unprotected part. Frozen and brittle rubber in shock absorbers, carbon elements in the transmission, petals of torque converter, and even hub bearings. Let the liquid begin to work gradually. As the performance of its functions, they are warmed up and also take the operating temperature. 10 - 12 minutes, you can already fly as crazy. The car just glad.

Listen Russian GEG. GEG broke the 12 coldest winters. Frost tearing steel axles, crumbled glass in the rump
- but the engines starts with a half turn.

Can't argue with what Geg is saying. Sounds like he takes his car maintainance seriously over yonder in Russia.

The engine starts and runs fine when started with the key. Since this car is normally parked in my garage, which is kept at 40 degrees, I only notice the problem if I'm out of town and staying at a motel or on a really cold and windy day when it's parked outside.

I'm told that it was a problem on 2006 models that was cured by a software upgrade that my dealer apparently hasn't installed. I have to call GM about it. I was told that they delayed the low oil pressure shutdown and the compressor start. If I can't get an answer from GM, I'll add an on delay timer in the compressor circuit. When you start it with the key, there is no low oil pressure shut off because there is a person in the vehicle to shut it down when the indicator comes on. If you have no oil pressure, the fuel pump shuts off.

If you start it & have the Climate Control set to "Outside Air" it will not turn on the A/C & will still warm up fine.. Just have the Heat dial all the way up & Fan on..

Later you can set it how you desire.

I take it on board.
how interesting way the world

Cold Start Problem Here Too
 

My 2008 has been towed to the dealer 3X by GM for cold start problems. Now it has 60k and they still haven't fixed the problem, it is only -11 F here this morning and the damn thing has stranded me again. One would think the new GM battery last year would have solved the problem. I think there is more to it, I run synthetic oil and leave the heat on the floor to prevent a broken windshield. I wonder if there is something causing a cold temperature ground in remote start circuit. The battery is dead enough to erase the radio clock and it was starting fine yesterday at 7 F and I drove it two hours. I'm giving it 30 and going out to see if it builds up enough residual to start before I begin digging for the battery.

So heres the update... the battery charger says the battery is fine with 12 volts at the ready. With the charger on 55 amp boost it still doesn't start! Now here is something, looking back at my posts from last year, the first time this happened was almost a year ago to the day and it was warmer!

Remote Start Problem - Check Engine Light
 

I have been using the remote start several times since the temps have dropped to single digits. A few times I noticed the engine will start and then shut off almost immediately. I was able to restart the engine with the remote on the second try. On Saturday it did this and I tried restarting with the remote and it did nothing. Tonight after work I tried the remote start and the engine started and shut off immediately. I tried to restart the engine with the remote but no luck. After I started with the key the check engine light was on. The engine/car seems to run okay. I drove it 60 miles without any issues.

Has anyone had this happen to their HHR? Will I need to take it to a dealer for checkout? TIA

Hmm, they started using Fluid in the electric power steering again!!!!

Remote starting in cold weather reply
 

Dear farmer52,

I have the post about your 2006 Chevrolet HHR. I completely understand how frustrating your situation can be.

Have you had the vehicle to the Chevrolet dealership for these issues that you are experiencing? If you have not, I recommend that you do so. At the dealership you will be able to get the proper diagnosis for the engine light. They should be able to help you find a resolution for the remote start not working in the sever cold temps as well.

Sincerely,
Michelle P., Chevrolet Customer Service

Remote Start and CEL issue - UPDATE
 

Michelle - thanks for the reply. :smile:

The technician where I work (we have a service garage on property to maintain company and test vehicles) hooked up and read the codes. He told me the CEL was caused by both front and rear O2 sensor heaters not heating properly (he suspects because of the cold temperatures). He also mentioned the sensors may be going bad (sensors not heating quickly). The last three (3) key starts showed everything was working properly. He cleared the codes and checked the remote start. It is working properly now. The CEL was preventing the engine starting with the remote. So all is well at this time. It only cost me a "lunch". :cowboy:

farmer52,

Thank you for the update. I am so glad that lunch was the price for getting the information that you needed on your vehicle. I am also happy that all is well with your HHR. In the future if you have questions, don't hesitate to private message me.

Have an awesome day!
Michelle P., Chevrolet Customer Service

not sure about this.
I mentioned the power steering as an abstract example. I apologize if I have entered someone astray. :roll:

Geg I love you man, did you spell that right?? It sure worked for me, keep the posts cumming Comrade.

SAM

I'm afraid I did not correctly translated. Poorly understood the meaning of the message. But the word "love" is nice, thanks. If you still accidentally hurt - again I apologize.
Simple phrases easier for me.

When defrost is on it defaults to outside air and the compressor runs. If it's set to heat, the compressor doesn't run and the engine will start but the windows won't defrost. The 8 minute cycle doesn't allow it to warm up enough or dry the air inside so when you turn the defroster on once you get in the vehicle, the warm moist air fogs the cold windows.