If I have power to the starter and alternator wouldn't that indicate the maxi-fuse is good? The clear plastic cover is missing off that fuse and I do have voltage going across it at 12.7 volts. I am still going to double check my connections tonight at the ECM and probably separate the fuse box to make sure none of those pins are bent.

 

Ok, let us know your findings

 

Check your PM.

 

Ok. I am slightly embarrassed here. It turns out that when connecting the two halves of the fuse block under the hood you really need to crank down on the 5 bolts pulling the pieces together. I was previously hesitant to do this because it felt like when I was tightening them they would pop and then feel loose again. They are only plastic with a brass insert. So after I pulled the fuse box and BCM/ECM connectors yesterday and put it back together I then got more power to the car (interior lights) and figured out that I was simply not getting enough voltage. Even though my test light was working at the fuse terminals I never checked the voltage. So after cranking down the 5 bolts and they actually did tighten good I had power to the whole car. A successful night. I let it get up to temp and then will check the coolant level today to get all the air bubbles out. I should be back on the road this weekend!

 

Don't be embarrassed, sometimes the factory left them loose, too!!

 

Fixed!!! Yeah!!! Park it nose high after your next drive, let it cool off then check the coolant level.
This will give the bubbles a chance to work up to the rad hose cap.

 

OOH, I was right!!!!

 

Good job Don.

 

Thanks to all the members. I am on another forum for another project vehicle and there is always a good group of people with more knowledge than I have same as this one. I figured it was something relatively simple that I was overlooking.

 

129K:
As they say, "You learn by your mistakes"
Glad you found your problem and educated us also.