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Problems/Service/RepairsIf you have a problem with your HHR, want a tip on repairing or performing a particular service to you HHR here is the place to post!
I thought you said a mechanic did the job and replaced all hardware. I hope that means the universal spring and all of the adjusting bits in the correct orientation.
I don't know what "hold adjustment" could possibly mean. They are either adjusted or not adjusted. It sounds like whoever did the brakes was learning how on your car.
While doing the adjusting you HAVE TO periodically step on the brake pedal to center the pads.
Originally Posted by Oldblue
Don’t step on the brake pedal if you removed the drum to access the adjuster star
Yes when he replaced the wheel cylinders he adjusted them. When I picked the car up the brake pedal was very responsive for about 2-3 days, then it went right back to where we are now. Is it possible the shoes aren't seating properly into the drum or something?
Weather permitting, i'll try adjusting the star screw later today.
Yes that is why I mentioned that 2006-2008 are different from 2009-2011.; The adjusting hardware is reversed. Not many mechanics are familiar with the system used on 2006-2008.
Yes that is why I mentioned that 2006-2008 are different from 2009-2011.; The adjusting hardware is reversed. Not many mechanics are familiar with the system used on 2006-2008.
Originally Posted by Oldblue
The hardware kits are supposed to be clearly marked left or right, but if he cleaned and reused the OEM adjusters he could have mixed them up.
So I adjusted the star screws and that seems to have fixed the pedal travel! I adjusted the rear right screw 20 clicks and the rear left screw 15 clicks. With the parking brake at 3 clicks, the car will not move in drive on a flat surface.
The spring kit i provided was installed correctly and all the bits were still new. While his one hired worker, aside from his son, isnt the brightest tool in the shed, the shop does good work.
However, as you guys suspected the Booster definitely seems to be on it's way out or at the very least has a vaccume leak. I can still easily come to a stop but I have to push a lot harder than I remember pushing last year when everything still worked. I did notice that when the engine is in higher RPMs the pedal feels closer to normal but not perfect. Is there any way I can test for a vaccume leak/bad check valve or would it just be better to replace the whole booster?
Even if they are correct L/R, they still can be backwards. I know.
The adjuster is backwards from American cars.
A. they were good at first
B. they needed 20 clicks to tighten
Here is the left drum brake 2006-2007
here is the American left drum 2009-2011
Even if they are correct L/R, they still can be backwards. I know.
The adjuster is backwards from American cars.
A. they were good at first
B. they needed 20 clicks to tighten
Here is the left drum brake 2006-2007
here is the American left drum 2009-2011
Mine is an 07 and the left side looked exactly like the first image. For the right side, I assume I will just have to take the adjuster screw out and flip it around?
