My manual is a 2010 and here are its instructions which I followed and got through the LF wheel but the RF did not respond. Any how all good now but I don't believe I need that special tool for this car.

 

I am not trying to debate this. Only pointing out that I have a 2010 OM and it contains those instructions. Perhaps they are in error. I have no reason to disbelieve you. Since there is no need to mess with them right now because they are all working I will leave things be until the next time I get an alert of a problem. If the manual steps don't work I will pick up one of those nifty tools that you kindly identified for me. Much appreciated. Thanks! :)

 

It might have, but it's a brand aid .
Had the same thing happen to me when I bought my SS used.
Bought one sensor off of Ebay or Walmart, had it installed, did the around the world tire pressure thing (per owners manual) and no worries after that.
Also have done it everytime I rotate my tires.
Most cars all run on the same frequency TPS which are 315 MHz (Mega Hertz).
Pickups and larger SUV's look to use 433MHz sensors.
My tire guy charged me $12 to R&I the wheel and change the sensor I had bought. Wasn't no $60 or 70 when done.
Hope this helps.

 

You were right...it was a band-aid. A few days later both the front wheels were not reporting to the monitoring system. I guess the batteries can be expected to start failing at 10 years :)
Went and had all four replaced today. Fingers crossed they are good for another 10 years! :)

 

Just a follow-up on the original issue. With some limited mileage put on since doing the battery disconnect thing the cold start-ups are seeming to be better that at first. Occasionally a little stumble but has not idled down to a stall which it had done a few times before. Fingers are crossed that the computer is learning how to behave! :)

 

Wait for a CEL and let us know.

 

OK so the problem is still occurring. Went to AutoZone to check for codes but they can only read codes if there is a CEL and so far it has not illuminated (except when first turning on the ignition). So I tried a few small things like pressing all the fuses and relays securely into the sockets as well as the visible plugs and connectors in the engine compartment. I don't have specialized tools to check fuel pressure but I am suspecting that the fuel pump could be a possible source of the problem. The reason I say this is because when I turn the ignition on I can hear the pump prime up and it seems to take longer than a second or two. Plus, after running the engine and turning off for 20 - 30 seconds when I turn the ignition on again it takes another 3 long seconds to prime up again. I am thinking it should hold the pressure longer than that and not require another full prime up run after such a short time. Is this correct?
I have two videos that demonstrate what's happening but could not get them to upload here. So here are links to my Youtube versions of the videos.

This first one shows how the engine stumbles and then eventually runs up and settle down to idle.

This one shows the prime and wait and prime again sequence. You have to turn up the volume to hear the pump.

My next step is to get back to AutoZone to see if they can check the fuel pressure on the fuel rail but am I looking in the right area for the solution to the problem in the videos?

 

If you prime it, and then start it, does it still start rough? Priming should limit it.

My old Saabaru preferred this pre-prime procedure, and I did it for a long time. It just cranked longer, though. Ran fine.

 

Thanks for the advice but in the first of the two videos I actually use that technique. I turned the key, waited for the prime to occur and started the engine. But you van see that it did not preclude the problem.

 

The lazy clerk at AZ is just wrong. If there are pending codes they will be there to be read. If there are no codes they won't read. The CEL comes on for "current" codes, some codes take more than one instance to become current.

I doubt they will do a fuel pressure test, but they will "loan" you the tool.

Hook it up to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, start the motor. should have 50-60 PSI
turn motor off the pressure should not go down more than 5 PSI in 1 minute
bleed off pressure to 10 PSI pressure should not lose more than 2 PSI in 5 minutes