Mechanic said he checked the clutch plate and it was dry.

I also inspected the relays. They do not appear to be damaged in any way.

I didn't notice this until last night but apparently when we put the transmission back on, a couple of the wiring harness were squeezed in spots where they shouldn't have been. I checked them for damage (didn't see any) and retaped them.

I'm putting it back together now.

Been living out of the car for 5 days now trying to get it fixed. The mechanic is helping when he can as much as he can without me being able to pay him. I'm lucky he let me keep it at his shop and work on it here, but I'm about to the point of a gathering up some hobbits and charging up my lightsaber to go on a quest via the Matrix to find an solution here.

 

Notice the labels on the relays in the photo. They all read the same direction except the one in 70. Standing in front of the car the "OMRON" should read right side up.

Pin 30 goes into slot 30 etc. it matters.

Electronics don't have much to do with the clutch. Or your description is just way misleading.

Does the engine rev high when you are trying to drive but the car moves slowly?

 

Engine revs high but no movement. Wheels turn and respond while up in the air. Barely move when on the ground.

I understand the numbers on the bottom of the relay. Here's a pic of my fuse box (holding the one for the ECM). There are no numbers on the slots to indicate how to orient the 4-pin relays. If I remember correctly, most were upside down, but I haven't seen anything in the manual to indicate how they should be plugged in.

 

Had p1682, reduced engine power message, and fuse 41 kept blowing.

Replaced ignition cylinder and circuit and, after 4 blown fuses and checking the wiring and retaping most of the bundles, put a 20A fuse in slot 41, which seemed to reset the #51 relay. Starts and runs great. Replaced 20A with proper 15A back in to slot 41. No more blown fuses. Relays click.
Slave cylinder inside transmission was clogged and looked blown apart. Put in a new one, flushed, filled, bled system.

No more codes or messages. Still appear to be in reduced power mode.

My mistake above, #51 is run/crnk.

 

Look at the PRINTING on the TOP. If it is an OMRON it should be right side up. That's why I posted the picture (from a GoOgle search).

 

Just took this pic from my SS. There seems to be no rule.

 

Come to think a 4 pin relay wouldn't really matter, as long as it isn't sideways

 

I still say you have a problem with the clutch. Not much else could cause this the way you describe it.
(remote chance that something broke internally in the trans. Not sure what though )

 

In that thread about the bolt (shift shaft detent), we had adjusted it (loosened, tightened) when we were trying to figure out why I kept losing fluid, the night if the"fix" and subsequent loss of power. Would that have anything to do with my issues?

 

It might, I think it's job is make sure the lever fully engages the gears. That might make the gears not fully engage, like riding on the synchronizer. The insides of transmissions is magic to me.

There are 3 with similar names.