For one, I know the tps for the pedal is WAY cheaper on eBay. Two, check mor of the posts here on the forums. Those guys at AZ dont always know what they're talikng about.

Evidently there are two different tb for the 2.4, several parts stores have one that's arse bakwards with the connection in the c nter not the edge of the cover housing.
I had to remove the whole tb because My toothbrush fell inside the intake. The tb was very coked up. Now I have the dredded racing 3500rpm idle. Tried all the tricks of forcing idle relearn without flashing or a tech II. The will idle perfect sometimes and then goes back to crazy hi idle. Im gambling on the tps being bad....yes I retrieved the toothbrush :D

You probably broke the tps with the toothbrush. Others have broken it by holding the butterfly without disconnecting the battery/power first, the nylon gears inside get stripped.

Relearn is just starting the car and letting it idle for 3 minutes.

But no cavities!! and minty fresh breath!

Update: the only tb I could get that was the right one was a cardone, which on top of everything makes me ill. I have bad experiences with that brand from defective reman just about everything, but that was ten yrs ago..anyhew the cardone was reman and cost twice as much as the new ones these parts stores sell.
Ok, the problem still exists after the new tb installed and batt unhooked all night, all relearn tricks done just as before. At first the car again idled sweet, ran 5 min like that. Never touched the gas, recranked and the idle was higher 2300 rpm, which lasted for a test drive about 10 min. Recrank again and its back to 3100 rpm and trying to climb higher! A good drive in town, interstate and it still being crazy,even with KOEO the tps says 31% at resting then up to 81% with pedal floored.
Im reluctant to have it reflashed yet as Im now thinking an input is off somewhere even though this problem didnt exist before cleaning. Im at a loss now untill I investigate further.

The ONLY relearn "trick" is a 3 minute idle. Whatever other "tricks" you may have done might be the problem.

Could be the pedal position sensor is bad.

Did you remember the MAF connector?

Like this:

Well yeah donbrew I already searched and read so I familiar with that repost, I haven't run across any info saying there's different tb listed for the same application, specifically LT 2.4, so Im providing that for all. ""tricks"" well those are everything people here have tried, I don't need to repost those harmless remedies.
I don't get the logic my APP is faulty to holding the tb open, that's cough toyota-like and besides the idle changed without me ever touching my he pedal like I said in previous post :). You're right, it does seem like something to look into but most problems with those have been lack of comm so the car goes in low power or no go period. I see no recalls on those for hhr either, ok this issue is loading the transmission-constant trans braking below 40 and on the torque converter once stopped, undriveable really.
Have I let it free run at 3000-3500 rpm for 3 min, not quite I guess, thats scary.

OK, that's my help.

That was not a repost that somebody made up it is from the factory service manual for 2007.

If you think about how the 2 position sensors work together you might see the logic.

It is not unheard of that even remembering to hook the MAF back up having a damaged connector or wire.

I appreciate the info, I wouldnt have posted if it was something simple.
This afternoon I took off the pedal switch and took it apart, relatively simple pot switch, sprayed it with crc maf cleaner. Before and after doing that the car started settling down when I put it in drive. It would go down to 900 rpm in D and once I did I could put it in park and it would hold nice idle for several minutes as long as I didnt touch the pedal, even barely tappimg the pedal would send it to 3000+. I got it to do that consistently over a 30 minute span, but then I drove it around and then it would not settle down no matter what.
I guess I will wait till monday when something is open to get it looked at with a tech II or reflash.