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Problems/Service/RepairsIf you have a problem with your HHR, want a tip on repairing or performing a particular service to you HHR here is the place to post!
Did try to re insert the piece of nylon? I can't tell if it is broken, just disconnected.
It is indeed called a regulator. I don't know how much you would save without the motor.
The nylon end guide was hopelessly damaged.
I don't remember exact prices but the assembly with the motor was only a couple bucks more, and I read warnings that the motors don't always interchange, so I got one with a motor and saved a little time.
Installation went without a hitch. Foam around the speaker had crumbled so I fixed that too.
Old & new. Note the pigtail on the new one. Prolly made connection a little easier.
Feeling confident with my success replacing a window regulator in my SS, I got around to attacking the non working front passenger window in our 2011 LS, mentioned in #12 above. The problem was initially intermittent, but had progressed to where neither switch would operate it.
Neither switch works, must be the motor or regulator, right?
Wrong, as we shall see.
Pulled out the regulator/motor assembly for a bench test and it worked perfectly. Wut? (Glad I decided to wait with ordering a new one.)
Put a Volt meter on the motor plug (on the harness, not on the motor) and started hitting buttons. Weird results, don't remember exactly, but I thought it was acting like a relay was stuck and it would only go up. Wut relay?? Took the switch apart and it's not just a dumb switch (like 2006-2008?) There's a green board in there with an LED and a ... RELAY?!
Long story short, replacing just the local switch assy fixed everything. Appartly, the problem with that switch assembly's green board also kept the master switch from operating the perfectly good motor/regulator. Seeing Don's wiring diagram helps me understand why that is possible.
Coulda just replaced the switch and skipped tearing the door apart. Two screws. Oh well. I had bought 2 switches for $15 shipped instead of one for $10. Now I have a spare.
Last edited by PulpFriction; Jul 28, 2023 at 12:44 PM.
The "master" switch activates the door switches, not the motors.
Yes. (Apparently) the signal from the master switch tells the local switch assembly to operate the motor the exact same way it would in response to the closing of the contact in the local switch. Would take more than a wiring diagram to know for sure, and I'm not a wirechaser equipped to reverse engineer that little green brain. What I found interesting interesting is only the front passenger position uses pin B, and the two rear switches use pin D differently than the passenger front.
It is in the diagram, 2 signal wires. HHRs with the master switch on the console work differently, the master operates the motor directly, no logic circuits.
Pin D on the front passenger is acc power voltage (RAP) and B is interior lighting. Pin D on the rear switches is the lock signal. The lock signal is apparently turns the module off somehow. D1 is a transistor used as a relay. TR1 is probably a MOSFET used as a power relay. Pin D looks like it supplies a signal the TR! to enable/disable D1.
It is in the diagram, 2 signal wires. HHRs with the master switch on the console work differently, the master operates the motor directly, no logic circuits.
Of course. Why keep it simple when you can add cost and complexity? To keep customers happy, I guess.
Long story short, replacing just the local switch assy fixed everything. Appartly, the problem with that switch assembly's green board also kept the master switch from operating the perfectly good motor/regulator. Seeing Don's wiring diagram helps me understand why that is possible.
Coulda just replaced the switch and skipped tearing the door apart. Two screws. Oh well. I had bought 2 switches for $15 shipped instead of one for $10. Now I have a spare.
Welp, nope.
Just 2 weeks or so, it's back to its old tricks.
Maybe it was never the switch, because...
The very same window got erratic, then stopped. Opened the door and gave it a good slam, window works fine. Drive it, quits working.
So, loose wire? Bad connection? Binding regulator? Dying motor?
