2.2 beat a 2.4! Yeah!
11-04-2006, 11:00 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: 10-14-2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 5,359
Originally Posted by JoeR
Today's fact (no BS!)...
The Cobalt SS with 17's has a 205/50-17 tire, which is slightly shorter than the 215/55-16 on the HHR.
The Cobalt SS with 17's has a 205/50-17 tire, which is slightly shorter than the 215/55-16 on the HHR.
Why not just swap tires with the guy (since he's a friend), and see what the results are then? You don't have to get all bent out of shape just because I made a logical suggestion.
My comment was based on the fact that we have done many runs here in an HHR with both 16's and 17's installed. The times are always quicker with the 16's.
Don't go away mad...and don't go away!
11-04-2006, 11:04 PM
#16
Member
Join Date: 12-12-2005
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 48
enOoNmAI--sounds like you had a good time at the drags and congrats on the win. I'm just jealous...here in Arkansas we only have a 1000' track (can you imagine the controversy if I posted times from that?). The closest 1/4 mile is over 2 hours away in Memphis. Not to add to the drama, but even at the drag strip, reaction time does not count against your overall time. Reaction time is the time from when the green light illuminates to when you no longer break the 'staged' light. When that is completed, and only then, is when your ET starts to accumulate and it stops ticking when you break the beam in the traps at the big end. At least that is how it worked when I raced at Englishtown, NJ (a NHRA track). If you don't believe me, wait for the green light and sit for a few seconds, then launch--providing you don't smoke the tires or miss a shift, your ET will be very close to you 'normal' time.
11-05-2006, 09:34 AM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: 12-18-2005
Location: Middle Village, NY
Posts: 1,780
Congrad's,enOoNmAI, on your win. At least you are getting to the track. I live about 1 1/2 hours away from Englishtown and have not been able to make it their all summer. A few comments-
First, reaction time does not affect the 1/4 mile times. I have seen, and been in races, where a car with a quicker time lost the race because of his reaction time being slower. Second, your car ran great but common sense dictates that a lighter, more aerodynamic vehicle with a larger engine and more mods should be faster. It is simple physics. That said, different drivers in the same car can have very different results. Even with an automatic, there is room for driver error in the launch and if he is manually shifting the gears. And, just because he put a bunch of HP parts on his car doesnt mean that everything is going to work well together. I have a dear friend that is an Automotive Tech-went to school for it and even has a degree. Years ago he bought a Monty SS and took it to the track. Then he began the mods. He did everything that was recommended by the experts-chip, lower thermostat, ignition, fuel, etc. And his car kept running slower and slower. To this day, nobody knows why. The combination he used just did not work.
Regarding tires, if the overall height is the same between the 16's and 17's, then the final drive ratio wont be affected; Only the unsprung weight would change. I dont know if the 16 inch tires have more sidewall to make up the height difference, or it the car's electronics is recalibrated depending on the wheel size used.
FInally, I have done a few things to my HHR-intake, exhaust, plugs-and I really want to get to the track. I have the Escort version of the G-Tech and my problem with using it is finding both a flat place to run that is both safe to speed on and without local law enforcement present. Any grade, either up or down, will drastically change the time you get. And when I finally do make it to the track, I will have my timer running to see how accurate it is.
By the way, I am searching for wheels to change to, and one of the key factors is weight. They must be lighter than the ones I have on now.
First, reaction time does not affect the 1/4 mile times. I have seen, and been in races, where a car with a quicker time lost the race because of his reaction time being slower. Second, your car ran great but common sense dictates that a lighter, more aerodynamic vehicle with a larger engine and more mods should be faster. It is simple physics. That said, different drivers in the same car can have very different results. Even with an automatic, there is room for driver error in the launch and if he is manually shifting the gears. And, just because he put a bunch of HP parts on his car doesnt mean that everything is going to work well together. I have a dear friend that is an Automotive Tech-went to school for it and even has a degree. Years ago he bought a Monty SS and took it to the track. Then he began the mods. He did everything that was recommended by the experts-chip, lower thermostat, ignition, fuel, etc. And his car kept running slower and slower. To this day, nobody knows why. The combination he used just did not work.
Regarding tires, if the overall height is the same between the 16's and 17's, then the final drive ratio wont be affected; Only the unsprung weight would change. I dont know if the 16 inch tires have more sidewall to make up the height difference, or it the car's electronics is recalibrated depending on the wheel size used.
FInally, I have done a few things to my HHR-intake, exhaust, plugs-and I really want to get to the track. I have the Escort version of the G-Tech and my problem with using it is finding both a flat place to run that is both safe to speed on and without local law enforcement present. Any grade, either up or down, will drastically change the time you get. And when I finally do make it to the track, I will have my timer running to see how accurate it is.
By the way, I am searching for wheels to change to, and one of the key factors is weight. They must be lighter than the ones I have on now.
11-05-2006, 04:45 PM
#18
Platinum Member
Join Date: 05-09-2006
Location: "Upland" Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 6,804
Jason.....
Really nice job....and, I know part of the result, was your driving skills....part was your HHR mods
(but, I can't help but wonder about the mods done on the 2.4 .... maybe, just maybe....). In your second race how was your performance UNTIL the missed shift??
First, I'm not taking any "side" here...
But, how do you know the "track" equipment is accurate to .005/sec. or .01 mph. Somehow they certify their equipment as accurate to "something" as well. Nothing, with the exception of a space program, is carried out to 5 or 6 decimal places. So, nothing is accurate to infinity...like pi. I've also witnessed tracks "handle" their equipment to provide crowd pleasing results for celebrity drivers.
And again, I'm really glad to see you pulling those kind of times, but don't "knock" the G-Tech. They are reasonably reliable pieces of electronic equipment...which is used by many professionals in the auto field. I believe even Bob Bondurants Driving School was using them at one time (don't know if they still are). I've also seen magazine writers use them in long lead "shoot outs" for Corvette and Z's. and report the results in their respective publications. Many people have compared them with more expensive and much more sophisticated equipment...and have commmented, in a positive nature, to the results.
But, you are correct, when you hinted at the set-up techniques for a G-Tech...that is a very ESSENTIAL part and needs to have credibility for valued decisions. And, unfortunately we were not provided any!
I would hope that you continue to participate and provide information to this forum. If one individuals responses are questionable to you, disregard them...but, stay a member of this community. I, and a number of other members, appear to find your postings of value. 
Really nice job....and, I know part of the result, was your driving skills....part was your HHR mods
(but, I can't help but wonder about the mods done on the 2.4 .... maybe, just maybe....). In your second race how was your performance UNTIL the missed shift?? First, I'm not taking any "side" here...
But, how do you know the "track" equipment is accurate to .005/sec. or .01 mph. Somehow they certify their equipment as accurate to "something" as well. Nothing, with the exception of a space program, is carried out to 5 or 6 decimal places. So, nothing is accurate to infinity...like pi. I've also witnessed tracks "handle" their equipment to provide crowd pleasing results for celebrity drivers.
And again, I'm really glad to see you pulling those kind of times, but don't "knock" the G-Tech. They are reasonably reliable pieces of electronic equipment...which is used by many professionals in the auto field. I believe even Bob Bondurants Driving School was using them at one time (don't know if they still are). I've also seen magazine writers use them in long lead "shoot outs" for Corvette and Z's. and report the results in their respective publications. Many people have compared them with more expensive and much more sophisticated equipment...and have commmented, in a positive nature, to the results.
But, you are correct, when you hinted at the set-up techniques for a G-Tech...that is a very ESSENTIAL part and needs to have credibility for valued decisions. And, unfortunately we were not provided any!
I would hope that you continue to participate and provide information to this forum. If one individuals responses are questionable to you, disregard them...but, stay a member of this community. I, and a number of other members, appear to find your postings of value.
11-05-2006, 09:21 PM
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 01-13-2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,059
Thank you to all for kind words and backing up however the means may be. I respect most everyone's input from here as much as you all have shown me, and then some! 
I'm still going to be around, but posts like this may not be on quite as often. Besides I still have some more modding to do! 
I'm still going to be around, but posts like this may not be on quite as often. Besides I still have some more modding to do!