I've seen "from the factory" crimped wires on many other cars before. They are usually hidden by the plastic wire loom cover. Most people never see them unless they're doing some serious wire repair work.
Never had to look close at any of my wiring on my SS.
Is there a chance that this is just a stock factory wire setup ? Maybe someone just pulled those wires out of the cover when working on something else ?
Then didn't cover them back up properly ?

 

Plausible George, or it could be the previous owner might have had the GMTU and removed it for whatever reasons but that is also a possibility, hmmmm.
I suggest a serious session of cut splice and soldering with a generous shrink tubing is in order, don't forget to solder into the joint and not the wire to avoid brittle joints that break later

 

The dealer said that the damage was in the front... I wondered the same things about if that was part of what was damaged, or if they had the GMTU and removed it. Who knows - I've been trying to find the phone number of the previous owners (have their name and address on the title) but can't find it yet.








Thanks very much for the soldering video! I'll watch it tomorrow. ...I'm trying to decide if I should tackle this soldering job - would need to disconnect harness to bring it up to a workable level, but I'm very limited on time.
I called a very well-known SAAB/Subaru shop here in town to see what their labor rates were - it's called EcoTech. Little did I know that the EcoTech engine has a European birthplace!?!? ...and the shop is called EcoTech because of all the engines they work on! hahahah I thought it was just a coincidence. They even have Subaru race cars for Rallye Racing...


Anyhoo - very nice mechanic said he felt confidant that they could take care of me, but he doubted that it was the crimped wires and described what sounded like an exhaust gas redirection valve that commonly has a diaphragm rip in it... they replace them with a part that has a Kevlar diaphragm. I wish I remembered what he called it, but I don't think it was a typical EGR term. He said that a ballpark figure was $200 to replace, if that's what the diagnosis called for.
I just need to decide if I should tackle this soldering job - seems like that should be first (since I've not read anything in our forums about a torn diaphragm involved with exhaust gas valves)...
The shop has a 7-10 day wait, so I have some time to ponder it.
Thanks again, gentlemen! Will keep you all advised.

 

Not doubting there abilities... but the LNF does not have an EGR valve much like a lot of the new cars built after 2000 or so.

I believe the EcoTec engine origin is from Saab. I do know that SAAB is forged into the crank I have.

 

It's a SAAB/Opel. The main reason GM bought SAAB.

 

Well, there's a diaphragm for the wastegate actuator that's in the exhaust system, but if that was torn, I'd think you'd get an overboost, not underboost. Then there's the diaphragm in the bypass valve, if torn could give underboost, but that's in the intake system. Don't know of any other diaphragms associated with the turbocharger.

I haven't ever heard of a wastegate diaphragm tearing. The bypass valve, I've read of many that have torn, and that's a pretty easy fix.

 

Seems simple enough to change per this how to from BadassBowtie,

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...acement-43763/

 

Yes, very easy. I took mine out for inspection. For $200, I would not even ponder it for a moment, this is something that anyone with the slightest amount of mechanical ability can do themselves.

JSK, take it out and inspect it!

Just be careful not to break anything while removing the PCV vent tube from the air inlet hose. There's a little plastic tab on the coupler that you push(kinda rotate) and then you can disconnect the vent tube, which does require some force. You reach under the air inlet hose with your left hand, locating and pushing the tab with your thumb, clockwise, from your perspective. While holding the tab, with your right hand reach over the air inlet hose and pull off the PCV vent tube. Do all this before you remove the air inlet hose from the airbox.

 

Again - thanks for your attention, guys.


I know he didn't say "EGR" valve, but it could have been something along the lines of actuator.


I guess if I got a scanner to read what the various sensors were doing, that might rule out/in the crimped connections. I'd hate to invest a lot into re-soldering if it wasn't the culprit.
Maybe I'll do some searching for bypass valve diaphragm tears...

 

OOPS - sorry, I didn't see RJ's comment as I was composing my previous reply -- yes, I can absolutely handle inspecting the bpv valve - thanks for that description.