It was $38 stated by fullmoon design and I am having a hard time believing they actually cleaned it. My doubtful side says they may not have. I don't know a shop around that will rotate tires ($20), fix a flat ($20-$25) and clean a throttle body ($89-$99) for that price. But I wasn't there so I don't know if they did the throttle body or not. My shop wouldn't do that for that price on a regular HHR much less an SS. But he may have gotten the bargain of the month special.

 

I was afraid of that... Thanks for the great info. I guess I'll just try to pull off the pipe and spray the heck out of it... or not. Good luck on the projects.

 

Yes, but then I'm sure your shop doesn't employ "trained monkeys".

 

Until we moved, I had a really good relationship with Reeder Chevrolet. Yes thirty eight bucks is what they charged. But realize, that I had all maintenance done there, the tech writer was a friend, and I spent a ton of money on a regular basis.

If 38 is hard to believe, then what about just under one fifty, to replace FE 5 and put in springs. Cuz that's what I paid. Labor only. Don't get me started in parts.


Now you know why I was so pissy about Dave Kirk. You can get good deals through a dealer, you just have to have a repeat relationship, show them that you take care of your car, and give them the opportunity to keep you as a future customer. I drive over an hour now just so I can have piece of mind.

Also, you can get to the maf,, in my car without pulling the bumper, cuz of the radiator mod,, I did years ago.plus Hanna piping and coupler help in the clearance department.

 

I know this is an old thread but I figured I'd add to it. I just replaced my TB. I was originally going to clean it but ZZP has new ones for $70. They were clearly bolted to an engine at one time but otherwise pristine. Sure, why not!

First - DISCONNECT THE BATTERY so the PCM doesn't try and use the old TB position calibrations when you start it. And has been mentioned, DON'T TRY AND MOVE THE BLADE. IT'S NOT INTENDED TO MOVE WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE INTERNAL SERVO.

I didn't bother removing the bumper and intercooler since I didn't see where it would add any better access. I couldn't tilt the radiator/condenser/fan back enough to hit the bumper it and I didn't see where I could reach under through the intercooler location to get to the bolts. If I was going to do that I would just raise the car and get about 2ft of extensions (which in hindsight might be easier.) But the tilting of the radiator is a good suggestion.

I removed the hood latch, upper radiator brackets and air shield that lays across the top. I removed the coolant overflow tank which added to the access to the bolts. With a 5/16" socket and extension I loosened the clamp. I used a long screwdriver to break the up pipe hose seal on the TB and then pushed down on the pipe to get it off. I could tilt back the radiator/fan enough to give access to my arms with 1/4" drive 10mm sockets and ratchet wrench. It took a few different hand/arm gesture-tweaking to get to the bolts but you can do it. A deep 1/4" 10mm socket and ratcheting wrench helped. I also used a bungee cord to pull the up pipe to the DS of the car since it was always in the way (or pull it down.)

I reconnect the battery and started the car. It rev'd to about 1500 and slowly came down as the coolant warmed up. Perfect idle.

As far as cleaning the old one, it wasn't all that dirty for 91k miles. And there isn't a idle bypass passage, so any dirt would be in the recess where the blade closed or on the shaft. Mine had no more that a light film and a bit of fuzzy on the blade. Frankly, I think the P2119 code I would intermittently is related to the electronics or gears inside and not to dirt on the TB unless it's at the seals for the shaft. Maybe cleaning the TB would fix it but I am suspicious.

As a final note, I generally wear Kevlar mechanics sleeves and strongly suggest them for this procedure. Your arms do get pinched between the support and radiator/fan assembly. It took about 90 minutes not rushing.

TK

 

terryk
Thanks for that input.

 

Just a FYI.
In the SS with the 5 speed, the engine is set back about an inch closer to the firewall. This gives you more room to work on stuff on the front of the engine.
If the SS is an auto trans model, then it's going be a tighter fit between the engine and radiator.

 

When I replaced mine I just removed intake manifold with TB attached to it. Took me less than 30 min. You obviously will have to replace intake manifold gasket.

 

Interesting, I didn’t know that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ohiocruiser

When I replaced mine I just removed intake manifold with TB attached to it. Took me less than 30 min. You obviously will have to replace intake manifold gasket.

When I was doing mine, that thought crossed my mind. I could have check the intake valves for deposits too. But I was well into it at that point. Save for the future!