SS Specific Service Issues/Repairs Service/Repairs specific to the SS. Turbo-Brembo Brakes-2.0 Engine-Limited Slip Differential-Programmable Display-MU3 Transmission

Cleaning coked valves

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Old Jul 28, 2022 | 04:03 PM
  #11  
PulpFriction's Avatar
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Originally Posted by m_ridzon
Be very cautious about following his Berryman's advice in that writeup. It destroyed all the rubbers components in my engine when it seeped into the oil and contaminated it. I had to rebuild the engine, which I noted at the end of his thread.
Yikes! ALL the rubber components? Could you explain the gory details? (Never mind. I found it.) Is this sort of procedure possible without doing serious damage?

The final version of the GM procedure eliminated the “soak.”

Are we talking about the same Berryman’s product? Also there are generic products similar to “Seafoam.” Wonder if they’re the exact same thing. Don’t even know exactly what Seafoam is. Generic products are typically packaged to imply that they’re the same as the more expensive brand-name stuff.

Last edited by PulpFriction; Jul 28, 2022 at 04:34 PM.
Old Jul 28, 2022 | 04:16 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by PulpFriction
Yikes! ALL the rubber components? Could you explain the gory details? Is this sort of procedure possible without doing serious damage?
The gory details are explained at the bottom of his thread. Yes, just about all of the rubber was damaged in my engine.

The rest of his writeup is a valid method to walnut blast the valves. I would just nix the Berryman's altogether. In fact, I would not put a single liquid chemical in the valve chamber whatsoever. None. Nada. Zilch. Have no liquid chemical cans within reach at all!!!
Old Jul 28, 2022 | 04:36 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by m_ridzon
The gory details are explained at the bottom of his thread.
Yeah I found it. Feel free to re-read my post; sorry about the edit. Comments about wet products.

Thanks for the warning btw.

Reading this makes be wonder about the best way to rotate the valves to get at all sides.
Old Jul 29, 2022 | 09:28 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by PulpFriction
Yeah I found it. Feel free to re-read my post; sorry about the edit. Comments about wet products.

Thanks for the warning btw.
My pleasure. If I can save someone else from the headache I had, I'd be happy. I would say stay away from all wet products for the procedure. I'm pretty gun-shy now having learned the hard way. I should have realized all those liquid chemicals would leak into the piston and get in the oil. This isn't my first day turning a wrench, so shame on me.

Originally Posted by PulpFriction
Reading this makes be wonder about the best way to rotate the valves to get at all sides.
No, you will not be able to rotate the valves to clean their backside. Nor will your best attempts be able to clean the hidden nooks of the head around the valve bore. I used coat hangers (copper since it's softer), small brass (brass is soft too) wire brushes, and long picks and gave it my best shot. As I mentioned, I walnut blasted and then tore my engine apart a week later to rebuild it. During the rebuild, I was able to see all the grime I missed on the valves during walnut blasting. They weren't missed because I was hasty and lazy. They were missed because it's an exceptionally difficult passage to get into. All that said, I'd say walnut blasting will give you about 8/10 on cleanliness, whereas complete teardown will give you 10/10. So pick your poison. ~shrug~ Me personally, 8/10 is good for me and I'll walnut blast again when the time comes, but with no liquid chemicals.
Old Jul 29, 2022 | 09:53 AM
  #15  
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The TSB does picture some impressive if imperfect improvements. Do note that it says to change the oil and filter after the procedure. After reading of your experience maybe I’d change the oil twice, lol.
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