Only use oil resistant O-rings like ones made from nitrile.

 

Just wanted to rant for a minute because I've had to remove the pan and re-seal it a total of 3 times before it finally was acceptable. In removing the old oil pan I really buggered up the bottom of the case, and firstly did the job when it was too cold out. I was able to fashion an old fireplace insert underneath the front of the car, and keep the working area around 70 degrees F and the repair cured very well. On the way to a store I realized i had forgotten to seal around the oil drain port OOPS. Luckily hadnt set up so was able to clean it and redo. Not leaking as far as I can tell. Might have to add a sealer to the oiler to patch up any tiny leaks.

 

It’s a tedious job, I let mine drip over night then cleaned up the residue oil, I applied that grey silicone to the engine and the pan then fit the pan into position and put in bolts at the 4 corners to hold the pan into position place while I installed the other bolts. This seemed to work well and cured a chronic oil leak in the passenger side rear area.

 

“I had forgotten to seal around the oil drain port OOPS.”

What is a drain port and why the need to seal it ?
( the oil drain plug has a rubber seal so no sealer there )

 

I think he means the port where the oil drains from the engine back into the oil pump, see post #2 in here



https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/gene...uestion-49565/

 

Aaah. The suction port where the oil pick up tube is. Now I understand.
The word “drain” threw me off.