No k&n oil on the maf?

 

"Try another K&N filter, before changing your MAF freq table.
Or, put your new K&N filter in a container of really hot water.
Let it soak for 10 minutes, than move it back & forth, for a few minutes.
This will even out the oil, if it was over oiled in spots, or too thick, in areas.
Remove, & let it dry out for a few days, then try it."


I'll try it. Thanks!


I noticed a honeycomb grid on the intake of my Monte Carlo SS while cleaning the throttle body. Interesting...

 

My sensor looked brand new. No gunk at all totally clean

 

I had tons of probs like that. Was in the shop several times. They changed a sensor 9 months earlier and continued to bog down. Finally they found another sensor on the turbo and it had gone and replaced it. No problems since(2 years now GM Staged). Sorry, I have no info on part # etc.
Hope you get it corrected M8.

 

I am having the exact same problem!

Forge BPV, GM Stage 1 (plug n play), TTR motor Mount, FACTORY air cleaner.

Drove perfect for 13 months, then had 0 boost issues, motor still rev'd fine but no power, NO codes either. Was like this for a week, looked at the stage 1 sensors, nothing wrong with them, then car was fine for 2 weeks, but today it started doing the same thing again!

EDIT - Some times my boost is perfectly fine inbetween 0 boost issues, so its not a boost leak... I'm gonna look into that turbo sensor...

 

I was thinking...yesterday when I removed my forge BPV I noticed the piston didn't move smoothly from what I can see it was due to lack of lubrication. I guess the lube that can with it wore out....at any rate I was thinking could this problem happen because the forge BPV piston gets stuck sometimes?? Could this be a issue?

 

Couldn't figure out where to put this,so here goes.

I installed new HAHN IC piping & IC today. I took it for a test drive, once complete, and this is how it went. I should probably mention that I have the GM performance tune with the new (different) TMAP sensors w/ auto tranny.

I allowed it to warm up (165 or so), then gave it some throttle once in second gear. I saw 10lbs, then lost all of it. Key cycle brought it back... so I head back 2 the house and tightened all the claps (opted for the upgraded claps, just made since). Took it for another spin and only got 8psi. The clamps are all flat on the silicon couplings, and tight as hell.

What am I doing wrong? Will the couplings seal better after a couple heat cycles?

My arms are all shredded from the lack of man room in the front of my lil cuttie, but i'm still smiling. Please shoot me some solid guidance. Thanks.

 

Forgot 2 mention there is about a 1/8" gap at the top of the coupling going to the intake (not quite all the way up there the factory clap was). I got pretty anal about halfway thru and made sure the couplings were evenly divided where they met (3" coupling, so 1.5 for each side)....try not 2 judge.

 

I will check my BPV when I get home today, maybe throw the factory one back in just to rule it out.

I don't think it is though, it is to blow off the extra pressure in the pipe when the throttle blade closes, I don't think it is large enough to purge all boost when WOT.

My thoughts are leaning towards either the waste gate on the turbo itself sticking, or the vac solenoid thing just above it not working properly and holding the gate open at times.

Going to check today if my car still falls under driveline warranty or not

 

Ok keep me posted. I put the stock one back in. No problems yet except I'm not boosting as consistent and as fast as before, I'm assuming because the stock BPV is back in? But the odd thing is when I boost I boost high like almost at 25PSI which I never saw when I had the Forge BPV in. I guess the only is to swap it back and see what happens?? Idk