First what did they say about the data logger? Did they give you one? If not why? I would demand it. It's a common dealer tool these days.

And I'm sure between the two threads someone asked what codes is it throwing? Did they test the alternator output current.? Putting out 14v means it should be working but means nothing if it's not supplying current to recharge the battery

If you can reproduce it in 7-10 cranks, I would take it the dealer, park it in front of their service entrance door and reproduce the problem before going in. Video the steps that cause it to die. Since they said they cranked it 60 times in 3 days they can't say well you sat there cranking it of course it's dead.

Starting it 45-60 times in two days without letting it run to charge each time doesn't sound right. I wouldn't think you could get that many starts without killing the battery.
I'm disabled and most of my trips are really short 1 mile each way or less, it's really hard on batteries(and the car in general), I make sure to give extra run time or I end up killing batteries in no time. I thought it was something with the car until someone asked me my driving pattern. The car simply wasn't running long enough to recharge the battery, so now letting it run after every couple of trips helps to top off the battery and make sure everything gets up to temp.

 

Could you give a little more detail here?
Some times it cranks several times before starting
Is it cranking strong?

Most recently, not at all with out a jump
Does this mean it won't crank at all unless you jumpstart it, or it just keeps cranking, without starting, until the battery is dead and then you need a jump?

 

So, it happens to you EVERY time, but NEVER for the mechanic?

Odd!

 

They didn't give me a data logger, said that it wasn't needed since there was no problem, their suggestion is that I either get a bigger, better battery(even though the one in the car is voltage testing and load testing fine) or that I may be leaving something on to drain the battery, which is also impossible as all systems cease to function when the key is removed. There are no codes being thrown or stored.the alternator is putting out 14 volts, starter tests fine. And according to the dealer, so is every other system in the car. It is just so intermittently acting up that it just doesn't make sense. After picking it up from them on friday, I drove 10, parked for an hr, Dore for 15, parked for an hr, drove for 10, parked for an hr, drove 10 min and parked all night. All the wile it cranked and started perfect. On sat, I drove for about 1/2 hr shut it off for about 10 min then drove for another 1/2 hr, went into the store, when I came out it was dead. Wouldn't crank or start, had to get a jump. I did record what it does, but don't know how to load it here as I'm on a cell phone. I contacted gm this afternoon and was told they have "special cicumstances" not technically recalls, that my 08 hhr ss fits. One is a loose wire in the steering wheel airbag that can cause these symptoms and the other is to due with the in recall and a malfunction when it's in the account position. Just waiting on the service manager to contact me to get it back there to check and fix those things. Keeping my fingers crossed as my faith in reliability is gone.

 

So, now you are saying it's the battery won't turn the starter, not that the motor won't start. CRANKING=starter running, TURNING OVER=motor turning, STARTING=motor running on it's own.

GM is talking about TSBs, Technical Service Bulletins.

If you are talking to the service writer like you are typing here, there is no wonder they can't fix it.

Calm down, just tell them the exact problem. Don't try to embellish the facts or get emotional. They don't care if "this is the last GM I'll ever buy".

 

Thank you for the clarification. I am aware of what cranking, turning over and starting mean. What I am not aware of is why my car all of a sudden won't do any of the three in such an intermittently fashion. That was the whole point of taking it to the dealer and joing/posting in this forum. I do and have apologized for my punctuation, already stating that I'm using a cell phone and not an actual computer, still no excuse for poor grammar. I am not being emotional, or embellishing facts, I had them stated the way I dod, because that is what happened, unfortunately no exaggeration needed. I was only expressing my frustration to you guys on the forum trying to possibly relate, but again I apologize for that as well. The service manager suggests to gwt a different battery and see if it happens again, said that thise otber issues dont appy to my vehicle or cause the issue im having.

 

It could be a bum new battery, we've seen it before! We've also seen loose ground wires and or missing grounds, loose fuses, dirty MAF sensors and throttle bodies, just suggestions, at this point.

 

Thank you all for your help, will be getting a new, new battery and hopefully this all goes away. Should I post an update once that's done? Or let you guys know if it solves the problem?

 

Yes please! Confirmation it resolved the problem will help others

 

Now that I understand what the problem is; I think you should open the hood and physically inspect the large red wire connection to the fuse box, while you are there take the cover off and push down on the fuse box to make sure the 2 halves are in good contact. Then inspect the ground connections on the radiator support driver side.

These are things that a dealership just does not do.