A penny is in the email.

 

The OTTP appears to be less flexible.

 

If you believe what OTTP says, it's not a rubber bushing, it's a spherical bearing, it's likely more flexible but also more rigid. As in it's easier to tilt, but much less likely to move in other directions, i.e., so no up and down or side to side. The question is, how long will it last?

 

I just ordered two of the ball joints to have them in stock.

I have a new pair of SS control arms in my inventory, along with two pairs with bad rear bushings (I replaced them with new control arms over the past 2 years).

Now I want to get a spare set of 5-speed shift cables.

The "impossible to get" steering shafts would be nice to have.

Trying to get a stash of SS parts that are hard to get.

Steve

 

Update on my LCA repair--
I received a set of the MOOG Problem Solvers and also a set of sway bar bushings. I removed the old LCA's and sway bar bushings and replaced the sway bar bushings in an hour or so. Then I tried to remove the rear bushings from the LCA's but after attempting with a puller and then resorting to a BFH with absolutely zero movement, I eventually realized that the bushing appears to be non-removable. Has anyone ever come across a LCA like this? One side of the bushing shows a separation between the bushing and the LCA, but the other side appears to have no separation in the metal between the bushing and the LCA. The lip of the bushing is actually not a part of the bushing at all, its part of the LCA itself. This aluminum LCA has the identification of SMW KAG 9482-3.in the casting. I'm about to just order the replacement LCA's because trying to save a few bucks is becoming more trouble than it's worth. Thoughts? invoicegarcia@icloud.com

 

You could try to carefully cut a saw kerf through the bushing, not cutting the control arm. Then you should be able to get the bushing out.

 

That part number appears to be just like all the others, for LS/LT. You need to be inside the bump.
Find a socket or adapter that exactly fits to the edge of the new bushings.

 

Donbrew, I have an SS, so I guess it's the same aluminum casting as the LS/LT?

Okay RJ, I took your advice and carefully cut the bushing out of the LCA. Unbelievable. It had me fooled. The bushing was seamlessly undistinguishable with the aluminum casting. I could see no separation AT ALL until I cut it and worked it for more than an hour. Dang, now I have to do the other one. QUESTION: If I try the BFH method again, is there an better side to bang on? Thanks a lot for the coaching...

 

If you use the BFH drive the old bushing as if the lca was bolted in position or up through the arm, .
I use an old brake rotor as an anvil I turn the lca over and place the bushing into the axle hole in the rotor, then smack the edge on the ring until it moves.
I do soak the old bushing with PB Blaster the night before.
Then when the ring is driven down, I use part of my ball joint press kit to drive the bushing ring out.

 

Thanks Oldblue, I did soak it overnight in PB Blaster but budge it did not. I really don't like the unintended possible damage that can occur at times from using a BFH and loved how quickly I was able to remove the first bushing via the calm studied use of a hacksaw and chisel, I went that route with LCA #2 and it was out in mere minutes. I reinstalled the LCA's and torqued everything down. The new LCA and sway bar bushings have restored the front suspension beautifully. Handles like a dream. Thanks y'all!