Didn't seem to want to come out, if there a trick?

 

Step 4 may be of some help.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...rbox-ss-56180/

 

When I replaced my SS motor mount, the way I remember it, removing the box was unnecessary, only the intake duct and the washer bottle. Removing the duct was made easier because someone had already broken the catch that locks it in place. Don’t do that.

 

So, thank you to everyone who answered here. I tried again today and got it done.
Loosened the intake connection going from the air box to the fender. I used these two picks. One on each side, pry gently and it popped right off. Then you need to pus down and unhook the bottom.



Then unplugged the wires to the pump and then popped the pump out of the washer reservoir, pulled it's three 10mm nuts and wiggled it out.
Placed a jack and chunk of plywood under the oil pan and lifted it up, then pulled the two 19mm nuts
Now jack up the motor till the mount just gets loose on the body
Now remove the 3 bolts you can remove with what I think was an 8mm allen wrench. If you use a socket it will get trapped at some point so you can use a socket it to loosen the three bolts but then you'll need that allen socket to finish getting them out.
Once those are off, the mount can be lifted off and wiggled out. Install the new one and replace the two 19mm nuts just short of touching.
Now adjust the jack so the mount it just touching the engine. then put in the three bolts
Now tighten the two nuts and the 3 bolts. I wanted to make sure there was no tension on the mount when I tightened the fasteners .
Next the washer reservoir, I think one should put on the two top bolts just before they touch and then tighten the lower bolt followed by the top two. Then snap the pump back in and plug the wires back in.
Lastly you need to reconnect the air hose. I had to connect the bottom first, it's trivially east to hook the top, but getting the bottom on properly was tricky. I finally figured you need to rotate that piece and force the bottom towards the air box and hook the bottom and then you can snap the top on. Took me a number of tries to manage to hook the bottom.
The old Mount was completely dead, the motor now sits an inch higher than it did this morning.

I used the OTTP-17033-AUTO Cobalt Engine Mount as I wanted a better one and OTP one seemed like it would be less harsh and you can buy replacement bushings for $14

It's weird, the old factory one was clearly toast and this one is certainly an improvement, but the difference is subtle. I guess it's quieter. I got the one from OTTP, OTTP-17033-AUTO Cobalt Engine Mount because it looked to have more movement and a replaceable bushing. I feel no evidence of vibration so I'm pretty happy with this one.

 

Wow, an inch! Nice work, thanks for the details, should help someone. I'll modify the title of the thread.

 

Thanks for your update. Enjoy the drive!

 

I too used the OTTP mount, like it for the same reasons. Slightly more vibration detected at the steering wheel, but not bothersome.

The difference might be subtle you, but ur flex joint will notice and thank you. Also, ur transmission, if you ever "accidentally" encounter conditions that might tend to involve wheel hop.