So what are my chances of getting the Rust problem fixed
 

I have read a lot of threads on here about alot of people experiencing the door bottom bubbling rust problem on HHR's
Just curious what my chances are of getting this repaired under the 5 year 100k rust warranty. I have about 45 days left

Below is the link to the discussion on the issue
I have done and still do body wokr and restorations and can see what is happening but I am curious how many of you have been succesful in having the dealer sand and paint their hhr's inner door bottoms

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/problems-service-repairs-42/paint-issues-bottom-doors-28183/

I got mine done under the 3yr bumper to bumper, no dice after that. Best bet is to clean and rustproof the inner door along the bottom before you refinish.
If you really want to fix it, you can try unfolding the bottom lip to get all the bad stuff out, but that could wreck the outer skin. Takes more experience and patience than I have.

I have read where others got it fixed under the 5 year 100k rust guarantee
Called a new local chevy dealer and.the body shop mgr said they just started working on chevys
This place is huge has at least 10 dealerships in one area.
Talked to service manager said they would have some of their older workers look at it and tell me if they.feel it is covered or not.
Seems like it should be pretty cut and dry to me but i am guessing thid will be a tough battle.

I had mine fixed under the B to B but it did not have rust yet. I'll explain-The Chevy Dealer I use, Robert Chevrolet, has a Body Shop, Cannon Collision connected to it. It has a group of great guys that are new school and old school mixed. According to the one guy of old school(I am sorry-forgot his name-but remember his clean cut yet biker/ZZ Top Goatee beard) he stated that there were actual arguments and discussions over my HHR as to what was happening to the doors. Some said rust, some said bad paint, but Biker/ZZ said he figured it out and the rest agreed.

I always new that the door sill rubber met the door right by where the "rust" starts and they actually block the drainage holes slightly with the door closed. ZZ had some floor time laying down and watching the molding meet the door. What he noticed was the molding was slightly sticking to the paint and pulling at it when the door opened. He said between frosting over in the winter & sticking from the summer, the paint slowly pulls away from the door (because of the type of paint as well as that particular area may have prep issues prior to painting). After the paint starts to pull away-the rust sets in. It makes sense because it was major bubbling on the drivers door (used daily), slightly on the passenger door (used a couple times a week), and the rear had none (opened and closed rarely).

They had pulled the door panels and scoped for rust-none found. When they prepped the door bottoms for POR15 & paint, they found no rust either. ZZ said in order to prep the doors he said that I must use a ton of silicon (guess he means quick detailer) because they had to do a thorough chemical clean. He said that's why the rust didn't set in-I always wipe the wet doors down with the detailer and always left the door open to make sure any water was out after washing the HHR.

He stated I should make sure I "lube up" the door strips so the rubber molding wont stick. I have done that with all the door seals but never thought to do that strip. GM actually states to use dielectric grease for all the regular door moldings (never mentions the lower body seam molding that gets "sticky"), but I priced the container and the counterman even fell of his chair... Might as well use the money to buy a tank of gas! I'll use the regular spray silicon for the regular seals & I bought a small counter pack of dielectric grease for a $1 for the 2 lowers for a light coating. So I think I vote for clean cut ZZ diagnosis, especially since there was no rust to begin with-just the famous bubbling.

Any thoughts ChevyMgr?

I got mine fixed under warranty no problem.

the 100k "rust through" warranty though, won't cover it until it rusts through. Just some bubbling in the paint usually won't be enough to kick that warranty in

Yeah the bubbling along the folded seam would have been covered under the 3/36 warranty, the 5/100 is only for rust through.

Thanks everyone
and Blacknight If I was only say an hour away from your dealer I would go there
Their diagnosis sounds dead on as my drivers side door has more bubbbling/rust than the other doors.
Still sounds like its up to the dealer.
Any thoughts or advice Chevymgr?

The body specialist at the collision center at your local Chevrolet dealership will need to look at the vehicle and then they would be able to provide you with options that are available. I completely understand that your time is very valuable, but it is worth a try to contact them if you have not done so already.

Michelle, Chevrolet Customer Service

Thanks Michelle
I am definentley going to have them look at it
I will be surprised if they do not take care of it

Went to the dealer today took them all of 2 seconds to say that they only cover rust that comes from the inner panels out. I nicely told him that I disagree and that I have done more than my share of body work .
He said it was caused by someone scratching the car in that area.
I showed him that the paint still shined there .I asked if he could at least take pictures and submit to gm just to look over the factory defect. He said no I would have thought. They could at least humor me by sending it in.