Silverfox. Above we're talking about front strut springs where there is a difference between the top and bottom of the spring.
As far as your rear springs, with the stock type spring (Cobalt included) I think they can go either way because the pigtail taper is the same on both ends.
(Some of the rear aftermarket lowering springs seem to be a certain end up but there has been some debate on that )

 

Thanks much George,

I'll look for any other possibility then,
I will post what I find if it is relevant.

SF

 

There's both a top/bottom that needs to be correct, AND a rotational positioning that needs to be correct. If the springs are "clocked" incorrectly, they will make contact on the inside upper when turning. You can't see marks until you remove the struts, but that sounds like what you have. I have had that problem...

You will need to compress the spring, take the strut module apart, and re-clock it. The isolators should help you get the ends in the right spots.

 

I have been doing a lot of research since my first post. I removed both struts again to verify that I had installed and replaced all necessary parts as well as to check out you guys suggestions. Everything was installed correctly the first time but I have discovered that the coil springs are binding in the mounts. The coil spring is suppose to rotate as you turn but at about a quarter turn you can see the spring suddenly release. I do not understand why this is happening. I sprayed the spring seats liberally with some amsoil dry lube and this has reduced the spring sticking substantially but has not eliminated entirely. The car steers easier without the springs binding. Any ideas as to why this is happening. I might understand if I had replaced the springs but they are original.

 

My post right above yours is about that very thing. They are not "clocked" right. They have a polar coordinate that must be correct to prevent this. Rotate the spring on the strut about 180*, and your trouble will pass.

 

I am having trouble understanding what you are describing. The spring can only fit onto the bottom strut spring seat one way. I disassembled the struts and reassembled one strut at a time to try to avoid any mixup. However when I look at the strut with the weight of the vehicle on the strut the spring is much closer to one side than the other. What am I missing?

 

IIRC, the spring is supposed to turn WITH the strut. Is the nut torqued?

 

It IS turning. It's not positioned correctly, and is hitting the upper inner of the shock tower. Is it upside down? If you really can't turn it 180* around the strut, then that becomes the next likely explanation. I don't have one to go and look at... sorry, but that's all I have. The springs DO have an orientation.

 

George,

After dis-assembling the Left Rear spring the only thing a bit unusual was there was a small amount of crushed rock on the lower isolator. It appears that some gravel got stuck into that area and interfered with proper spring seating.
How and why it made such a loud snap when I would hit a hard bump is unknown to me, but I went ahead and replaced the Left rear lower isolator with a new one and so far it appears to have fixed the issue.
I also rechecked the bolt torque on Rear shock and Turbo Tech Rear Stabilizer. They were both ok.

Silverfox

 

Did you ever figure out what was wrong?