firemangeorge

With the new battery installed, sounds like a bad wiring connection.
Check all the ground points. Also check the positive cable connection at the underhood fuse box as Lucky suggested before.

hhrrat

New battery check
New starter check

I checked the 13mm positive cable bolt at the fuse box and its tight as it should be.
Checked the battery terminals, tight too.

Any particular ground cables I should check? There are 2 that bolted to the tranny and one of those goes to the radiator bar. They look good. Any other ground I should look for?

Also, where is the starter fuse link?



Great closed the trunk. Now it wont open either LOL.

Oldblue

Doh! Been there closed that!

firemangeorge

One place to check: The battery itself grounds at the right rear of the vehicle. Just follow the cable from the battery (-) terminal to it's ground point.

Oldblue

Check that little red wire on the solenoid it may have fried when it touched the black ground wire

hhrrat

Checked the battery ground and its looks brand new with no corrosion well secured.

Going to get a multimeter and start checking why am not getting enough juice to even turn the headlights on. This is really turning into a nightmare lol

donbrew

Did you check the maxi fuse next to the battery.

How about the tiny ground from The rear wiring harness to the engine block driver side.

Anything else you may have disturbed with the timing chain job.

hhrrat

Using the multimeter, under hood fuse box is getting 12.20 volts same applies to starter.
Checked the rear ground, I think it connects to the cylinder head. It is securely fastened.
Checked the fuse next to the battery and it looks good visually.

Seems like nothing outside the car works headlights, horn(just a click), taillights, brake lights, trunk door etc

Tomorrow I will go over the wiring harness one plug at a time and see if maybe I dig something out.

firemangeorge

The service manual shows ground points on and around the left strut tower. These are ground points for things like the headlights, clearance lights,horn etc.

Fwiw. Check the voltage at the battery. 12.20 volts is NOT a full charge. Compare the battery voltage to the underhood fuse box main + cable.

Also, before checking, make sure all doors are closed and key has been off and removed for at least 30 mins. to let all RAP accessories power down. If any of these accessories are still powered up, you will get a lower voltage reading.

hhrrat

Today I checked 3 grounds: By drivers shock tower. radiator bar and tranny and they all checked out good with a test light.

I moved to the under hood fuse box and here is where heaven and hell met. First of all, I hope i was using the proper procedure of testing the fuse box fuses. I connected the test light to the positive under hood terminal, and started checking the fuses. I tried connecting the test light to the ground and turned the ignition to on, but that method did not work.

Anyways, by using the first method above, a **** load of fuses are not working (test light bulb not lighting). Some are not even broken when you do the visual check, and they still not working.

These are the fuses that are not working:
33,41,43,45,46,47,62,63,65,66,67.

I thought maybe I am doing it wrong, because you can have that many bad fuses. I had only one spare fuse. I decided to change one of the 20a fuses with the new one I had, and what do you know, it worked( test light bulb turned on) I dont have extra fuses, but I will get some when I get off work. So hopefully I am moving in the right direction with this Soap Opera.

Any way of checking the Big rectangular fuses?

Thanks in advance.