Cold Air Intake System Weapon R Dragon
01-08-2010, 02:08 PM
#1
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Join Date: 11-20-2009
Location: Las Vegas
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Cold Air Intake System Weapon R Dragon
ok I am about to buy 1 and I am wondering if anyone here has any info bad or good on these intakes ? They look real nice and appear to be a great deal on Ebay 132.00 anyways thx for any input !
01-08-2010, 05:57 PM
#3
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Join Date: 11-20-2009
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What hype ? It is nothing more than a cold air intake very simular to the CGS . Now I have emailed a few who have bought them from the guy and they say they like em yet I have never heard anyone here having one . Joe you just cant say dont believe the hype ! At least give me a reason or some info why you feel that way . Just to make sure that all of you know , I know that if it improves anything it will be very little and that the stock setup is good but I do not like the stock setup 1st thing you learn in machanics is change muffler and intake and allow the motor to breath I have done that with all my Harleys and some of my cars even my motorhome has the Banks intake and exhuast on it .
Last edited by wildman1122; 01-08-2010 at 06:00 PM. Reason: correct grammer
01-08-2010, 06:35 PM
#4
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Join Date: 12-18-2005
Location: Middle Village, NY
Posts: 1,780
Hi Wildman,
I have the similar CGS on mine. I love the looks and the sound. Some here, like JoeR, dont like the way it gets some of its air from the engine compartment (the stock setup has its inlet directly in the fender hole). My belief is that once you are moving the air is circulating and cools off. Between my CGS, IMCO exhaust, and Tunetime computer work my car feels much quicker than stock and the G-Tech timer predicts 1/4 mile times in the mid 15's. The HHR is not a race car, nor is it meant to be one. It is a nice looking roomy econocar. I like my ride to be responsive and now it is (I also lowered the rear, added a sway bar, stiffer and shorter rear shocks, and better tires so it handles much better also).
My only concern for you would be the dreaded traction control codes some of us get. Some of us have problems throwing codes after changing the intake system. My personal belief is that there is a degree of tolerance with some of the settings and if your particular engine is close to one of the extremes changing the air cleaner could throw you out of range. I have heard people have this problem with many different systems, including the GM factory upgrade. Some have blamed it on the oil in the filter but I cleaned both the MAP and MAF sensors (even replacing them) after switching to a dry filter and I still have the problem.
That aside, I like the way our systems look much better than the AirRaid, GM, or K & N design. If you are truly looking for performance, I think adding a hood scoop that directs the air to the filter would help. Another enthusiast, CJ, added a hose to the end of his filter and has it run down along the radiator and aimed towards the front of the car in the grill for ram air.
I have the similar CGS on mine. I love the looks and the sound. Some here, like JoeR, dont like the way it gets some of its air from the engine compartment (the stock setup has its inlet directly in the fender hole). My belief is that once you are moving the air is circulating and cools off. Between my CGS, IMCO exhaust, and Tunetime computer work my car feels much quicker than stock and the G-Tech timer predicts 1/4 mile times in the mid 15's. The HHR is not a race car, nor is it meant to be one. It is a nice looking roomy econocar. I like my ride to be responsive and now it is (I also lowered the rear, added a sway bar, stiffer and shorter rear shocks, and better tires so it handles much better also).
My only concern for you would be the dreaded traction control codes some of us get. Some of us have problems throwing codes after changing the intake system. My personal belief is that there is a degree of tolerance with some of the settings and if your particular engine is close to one of the extremes changing the air cleaner could throw you out of range. I have heard people have this problem with many different systems, including the GM factory upgrade. Some have blamed it on the oil in the filter but I cleaned both the MAP and MAF sensors (even replacing them) after switching to a dry filter and I still have the problem.
That aside, I like the way our systems look much better than the AirRaid, GM, or K & N design. If you are truly looking for performance, I think adding a hood scoop that directs the air to the filter would help. Another enthusiast, CJ, added a hose to the end of his filter and has it run down along the radiator and aimed towards the front of the car in the grill for ram air.
01-09-2010, 12:18 AM
#5
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Join Date: 11-20-2009
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Posts: 54
Lee3333
So it throws out codes ? Where on the dash . Does the check engine light come on ? You know that would be the only reason I leave the stock set up on . So you say that it happens with the CGS is it the same on all the other intake setups ? Thx for the heads up on the (codes) . I have had my HHR 4 yrs and have just started to change thing (lowering spring , shocks and 20s rims) . I have had alot of trouble with the car and didnt want to give Chevy any reason not to fix (during warrenty) . Once again thx to everyone !
So it throws out codes ? Where on the dash . Does the check engine light come on ? You know that would be the only reason I leave the stock set up on . So you say that it happens with the CGS is it the same on all the other intake setups ? Thx for the heads up on the (codes) . I have had my HHR 4 yrs and have just started to change thing (lowering spring , shocks and 20s rims) . I have had alot of trouble with the car and didnt want to give Chevy any reason not to fix (during warrenty) . Once again thx to everyone !
01-09-2010, 01:23 AM
#6
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Join Date: 01-09-2007
Location: SE USA
Posts: 15,865
I just added a K&N in my oe box. Which does fine for me..
yea first time removing it seems overly complicated. But after you've done it it's much easier (as with most things)..
I like the CGS 'look', only because it shows the motor. However, from what I've read, it does nothing besides a cosmetic change.. And I prefer hearing my XM jamming than the intake howling.
Noise doesn't always equate to more power.
If I did do a CGS/style tube, I'd build from scratch & have it to go thru the inner fender to draw outside air. & if I wanted to get more serious, I would wrap the tube in Header wrap..
just my .02
yea first time removing it seems overly complicated. But after you've done it it's much easier (as with most things)..
I like the CGS 'look', only because it shows the motor. However, from what I've read, it does nothing besides a cosmetic change.. And I prefer hearing my XM jamming than the intake howling.
Noise doesn't always equate to more power.
If I did do a CGS/style tube, I'd build from scratch & have it to go thru the inner fender to draw outside air. & if I wanted to get more serious, I would wrap the tube in Header wrap..
just my .02
01-09-2010, 07:58 AM
#7
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Join Date: 07-13-2009
Location: NC
Posts: 414
I agree with SSGuy, the only way (in my mind) that a CGS or other open filter system would work is if you do some modding and fit the filter into the wheel well. If you leave it in the engine bay, you aren't getting anything but a cool look and more noise (it sucks hot air). Do a search for Hib Halverson's posts and installing and testing a K&N box.
I have a GMPP intake, and like it, as the filter is sealed up and plumbed to get fresh air from the wheel well (like the big K&N filter & intake kit). The codes come from oiled filter elements throwing oil onto the sensor. Some folks have the problem, some don't. Maybe it is a case of how much oil is used.
My analysis was 1) get cold air; and 2) dry element filter. The factory GMPP did both for me. Not cheap though. And hard to find.
What works for me may not work for everyone.....just my opinion. SSGuy is sharp, so don't ignore his advice.
God Bless, Marc
I have a GMPP intake, and like it, as the filter is sealed up and plumbed to get fresh air from the wheel well (like the big K&N filter & intake kit). The codes come from oiled filter elements throwing oil onto the sensor. Some folks have the problem, some don't. Maybe it is a case of how much oil is used.
My analysis was 1) get cold air; and 2) dry element filter. The factory GMPP did both for me. Not cheap though. And hard to find.
What works for me may not work for everyone.....just my opinion. SSGuy is sharp, so don't ignore his advice.
God Bless, Marc
01-09-2010, 08:18 AM
#8
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Join Date: 12-18-2005
Location: Middle Village, NY
Posts: 1,780
I have read of some people getting codes even with the GMPP system. As for oil, like I said, I am using a dry filter and still getting codes. In my case, it is hard to pinpoint when it began. I installed the CGS and for months had no problems. Then, I installed the IMCO muffler and shortly after had the computer tuned. A few days later, my car got hit as I pulled away from a stop sign. It was T-boned directly at the passanger rear wheel. The car was repaired, and when I got it back the codes began. Before you ask, the wheel sensors were checked.
It started simply enough. If I broke traction (either intentional or on snow) the T/C light came on and the car went into a safety mode to protect itself, causing the transmission to shift very hard. All you had to do is turn the engine off for a few seconds and restart it. But, after about 5 codes it would activate a 'Service Soon' light. That too goes away after about 8 restarts (though it still all shows in the computer). The real problem is that the codes began coming on more and more, without spinning the tires. Sometimes I would just be cruising at 20 MPH and the light would pop on. Other times, it came on while waiting at a traffic light. Or if I was driving and stepped on the gas a little too hard. Reading the codes show several things, including bad MAP and MAF sensors. I cleaned both many times, and even replaced them. I had the computer tune taken off. Nothing helped. The only thing I havent tried is putting the stock air filter on, because I dont have it anymore.
My main point with all this is it DEFINITELY is not the oil on the filter. Some people have speculated that it could be the change in air velocity going into the engine since the tubing is different. That would account for those with the GMPP system having the codes.
It started simply enough. If I broke traction (either intentional or on snow) the T/C light came on and the car went into a safety mode to protect itself, causing the transmission to shift very hard. All you had to do is turn the engine off for a few seconds and restart it. But, after about 5 codes it would activate a 'Service Soon' light. That too goes away after about 8 restarts (though it still all shows in the computer). The real problem is that the codes began coming on more and more, without spinning the tires. Sometimes I would just be cruising at 20 MPH and the light would pop on. Other times, it came on while waiting at a traffic light. Or if I was driving and stepped on the gas a little too hard. Reading the codes show several things, including bad MAP and MAF sensors. I cleaned both many times, and even replaced them. I had the computer tune taken off. Nothing helped. The only thing I havent tried is putting the stock air filter on, because I dont have it anymore.
My main point with all this is it DEFINITELY is not the oil on the filter. Some people have speculated that it could be the change in air velocity going into the engine since the tubing is different. That would account for those with the GMPP system having the codes.
01-09-2010, 08:29 AM
#9
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Join Date: 07-13-2009
Location: NC
Posts: 414
Hi Lee, I will defer to your knowledge sir. I had not seen any posts regarding the GMPP throwing codes, but I am certainly not an expert at anything. My '09 has not had any problems with codes, nor with traction control issues. It kicks in when I get on it too hard, but works pretty seemless. I am sorry your HHR has been having problems. I think SSGuy's idea of putting the filter in the fenderwell (others have done so as well), would at least get the filter further downstream if oil may possibly be a contributing element for some. It would certainly help with cold air intake!
Seeing how my HHR has made huge gains in power with this COLD outside air we've been having, I cannot help but think outside (versus underhood) air being sucked in helps in the summer. My former cars were all V-8's, and none seemed to care too much what temp air they were given. Maybe it was just such a surplus of power that I couldn't feel the hp improvement on the V-8's. Maybe the new computer controls can take advantage of cold, dense air on an HHR?
Best wishes to all and God Bless, Marc
Seeing how my HHR has made huge gains in power with this COLD outside air we've been having, I cannot help but think outside (versus underhood) air being sucked in helps in the summer. My former cars were all V-8's, and none seemed to care too much what temp air they were given. Maybe it was just such a surplus of power that I couldn't feel the hp improvement on the V-8's. Maybe the new computer controls can take advantage of cold, dense air on an HHR?
Best wishes to all and God Bless, Marc
01-09-2010, 10:27 AM
#10
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Join Date: 12-18-2005
Location: Middle Village, NY
Posts: 1,780
I wish I could recall where I heard it, but I do believe that there was at least one person with codes problems that had the GMPP system.
Regarding the cold air, I think your theory is correct. The new computer systems take everything into account when it calibrates the engine including air temp and octane. Although we can use regular gas, some people have written that when you use premium the engine is able to advance the timing more. So it figures that when the air is cooler it adjusts accordingly. Still, I find it hard to believe that when the car is driving the cold outside air is not getting to the air filter from the grill and under the engine. Plus remember that with the CGS system, the filter is placed directly in front of the fender hole so the air coming through it still reaches the filter. Sure, when the car is not moving the air heats up under the hood. But who cares how it runs when you are stopped. More HP is only needed when the car is driving and then the air circulation should be adequate. Also remember that dyno tests of the systems are done with the car not moving so the under hood air is stagnant and hot. For a true test, the hood should be closed and a fan should be placed in front of the car to simulate the car moving.
It would be interesting to see what the underhood temperature is when the car is moving, and not hard to calculate. I have seen thermometers with remote sensors-all someone has to do is put the sensor near the air cleaner and see how hot it gets both when stopped and while driving.
Regarding the cold air, I think your theory is correct. The new computer systems take everything into account when it calibrates the engine including air temp and octane. Although we can use regular gas, some people have written that when you use premium the engine is able to advance the timing more. So it figures that when the air is cooler it adjusts accordingly. Still, I find it hard to believe that when the car is driving the cold outside air is not getting to the air filter from the grill and under the engine. Plus remember that with the CGS system, the filter is placed directly in front of the fender hole so the air coming through it still reaches the filter. Sure, when the car is not moving the air heats up under the hood. But who cares how it runs when you are stopped. More HP is only needed when the car is driving and then the air circulation should be adequate. Also remember that dyno tests of the systems are done with the car not moving so the under hood air is stagnant and hot. For a true test, the hood should be closed and a fan should be placed in front of the car to simulate the car moving.
It would be interesting to see what the underhood temperature is when the car is moving, and not hard to calculate. I have seen thermometers with remote sensors-all someone has to do is put the sensor near the air cleaner and see how hot it gets both when stopped and while driving.