BEFORE proceeding with your own repair please read Post #7 and subsequent posts to see if there is a resolution to the quandry.
There seem to be a few posts lately about the door locks not locking or unlocking well. Especially when using the FOB.
In my case I found the fault to be a weak small electric motor found inside the Door Lock Assembly.
The Door Lock Assembly has to be removed from the vehicle for this motor to be replaced.
One must feel confident in removing the door panel, fooling around with linkages, electrical connectors and other whatnot to perform this procedure. Door panel removal has been covered elsewhere on this forum so I will not cover it in this thread.
Below is a picture of the Door Lock Assembly removed from the vehicle. Not a great picture but it shows you just what you must remove from the vehicle.
Door window must be in the fully up position with the door open.
Fully loosen the Door Trim Panel. The Door Trim Panel cannot be removed until all the Electrical connections and cables are disconnected from it.
Remove the cable from the Interior Door Handle.
Pull whatever part of the foam Water Deflector out of the way as you need. There is also a Door Lock cable retainer mid way on the cable that must be loosened from the door.
Set Door Trim Panel aside after disconnecting the electrical connections to the switches or removing the switches themselves from the door panel.
From my reading on this forum I find some people find it easier to remove the switches from the panel than to disconnect the connectors from the switches. Whatever makes you happy.
Remove the three torx screws from the end of the door.
While the Door Lock Assembly is flapping around unattached to much of anything remove the Exterior Door Handle linkage from the Yellow Plastic Clip retainer on the Door Lock Assembly. This looks like a simple threaded rod. Upon reassembly put the Door Lock Assembly into the door and tighten the three screws before reattaching the Yellow Clip to the threaded rod - it self aligns this way.
Withdraw the Door Lock Assembly from the door cavity.
The next picture is just for reference. Note the six screws and the Yellow plastic clip – these will need to be removed to get the two halves of the Door Lock Assembly apart.
Start with that yellow clip. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to collapse the barbs on the backside and remove from the linkage.
Now remove the six screws.
This little Tab will have to be released before the two halves will separate.
Two halves separated.
This is where you will be doing most of the work. Note the Fork. When reassembling the two halves this Fork must grab the nub from the other half of the assembly. If not, you will not be able to either lock or unlock once the unit is put back into the vehicle.
The next two pictures are of the Nub the Fork has to surround. Sorry they are fussy. One picture is locked and one is unlocked – don’t know which is which. Doesn’t matter; just make sure that once you have reinstalled the lock/latch mechanism back into the vehicle you do some testing before you close the door.
Move the linkage to this position and you will see a screw near the Fork.
Remove the fork linkage and the screw.
Remove gear/motor contact retainer.
At this point I have no further pictures, but it is pretty simple. Note the position of the gears for reinstallation and remove them. You will see that a friction fit retains the motor. You should rotate the motor 90 degrees to remove it. Removal may require some prying with a small screwdriver.
Source and replace motor. Note: keep the motor contacts facing out. Reassemble in the reverse order and you are done. It might be wise to test the electrical operation while taking the unit apart and also while assembling the unit.
AND definitely test for proper operation before closing the door of the vehicle. I waited several days before putting the door panel back on; just to make sure everything was fine.
Oh and while you’re at it pick up some Lithium grease and apply some to the linkage & gears inside the Door Lock Assembly.
My motor was marked with “FC-280SC-18180” as the part number of the original manufacturer. I found it on ebay with just that search. The important thing is that the motor from the manufacturer DOES NOT have a coarse
toothed gear on the shaft. The ebay seller’s did have a course toothed gear making it perfect. Do not buy a fine toothed geared motor. I imagine the seller will sell out at some point in time and this link will be worthless.
The worse part of this procedure for me was removing the three screws at the end of the door. I broke several cheap 3/8” drive Torx bits from Harbor Freight & my local Auto Parts store – had to borrow the mechanic’s Snap-On next door. So if you wish to attempt this I would first loosen those screws a bit. I put them back with a bit of thread lock as well.
On the plus side I found I did not have to align anything; not the door latch to the vehicle or the external door handle linkage to the Door Lock Assembly.
Oh, this was performed on the right front passenger Door Lock Assembly. The left side maybe a mirror image.
This is the small motor: