How to replace rotors and pads on 06 HHR
#11
This is a good general "how to" for rotor/pad replacement only.
But I would suggest that a novice, someone that has never done brakes before, not attempt a front brake service with out more instructions, training and/or experience. A person needs to have an understanding of the effects on the brake fluid levels before and after servicing, bleeding the brakes if necessary and know to seat the pads before attempting to drive (critical to in my opinion). You would also need to burnish them on the test drive afterwards. Lubrication on caliper slides is also may be necessary, which is why GM includes a tube of lube with their pads, but there are other lubes out there.
I will guess you removed the caliper to paint it. If someone is going to also remove the caliper for painting, there are more steps to be done.
But I would suggest that a novice, someone that has never done brakes before, not attempt a front brake service with out more instructions, training and/or experience. A person needs to have an understanding of the effects on the brake fluid levels before and after servicing, bleeding the brakes if necessary and know to seat the pads before attempting to drive (critical to in my opinion). You would also need to burnish them on the test drive afterwards. Lubrication on caliper slides is also may be necessary, which is why GM includes a tube of lube with their pads, but there are other lubes out there.
I will guess you removed the caliper to paint it. If someone is going to also remove the caliper for painting, there are more steps to be done.
#13
#15
I checked the brake fluid before and after, read the manufactor's directions which told me how to seat and burnish them by going on a rural road and gradually stopping from 40 mph, 5 times with a minute interval. EBC pads have a rubbery pad on the back of them that is why, i am guessing, no lube needed. I have installed brake pads on 3 different occasions seen tkHHR's how to on brake rotors which was a little different on 06.
I was hoping by my post, to relate that someone that has never done brakes or any type of work on a vehicle, to not attempt it. I added the fluid check etc.. only to be helpful.
And your Calipers look great! The rotors and pads are a vast improvement over GM stock. Keep up the good work, your ride looks better and better every time you post new pics!
#16
Grey, I wasn't try to flame you or infer that you didn't know what you were doing, I could tell by this thread and others you have posted that you have mechanical abilities.
I was hoping by my post, to relate that someone that has never done brakes or any type of work on a vehicle, to not attempt it. I added the fluid check etc.. only to be helpful.
And your Calipers look great! The rotors and pads are a vast improvement over GM stock. Keep up the good work, your ride looks better and better every time you post new pics!
I was hoping by my post, to relate that someone that has never done brakes or any type of work on a vehicle, to not attempt it. I added the fluid check etc.. only to be helpful.
And your Calipers look great! The rotors and pads are a vast improvement over GM stock. Keep up the good work, your ride looks better and better every time you post new pics!
#17
11)Might need to put the cyclinder that pushes pad against rotor back in so pads will slide on the rotors. I used a big adjustable wrench with the old pad on and squeezed the wrench to depress the cylinder(may not be the correct method but it worked for me, no problems)
I also have someone watching the brake fluid reservoir to make sure it does not overflow while I SLOWLY force the piston back down.
The fluid shouldn't overflow - it should actually be down a little bit as the pads wear, and return to the full line when the piston is depressed.
If you took it to an oil change service and they commented that your brake fluid was low - and then topped it off for you - it may overflow during this step.
Jim
#18
An important thing to remember is that the slotted rotors are directional. Although the instructions do not even mention it, if you check the website at EBC they tell you that there is a left and right rotor.
I learned this the hard way. I thoroughly read the instructions and the box and installed them last July. Now that I am having terrible vibration, I looked up their website to find their phone number (not listed-you have to email them). In their FAQ section, they have pictures showing the proper way to install the rotors. I am very annoyed that none of this was in the instructions, nor any of the additional sheets of paper with warnings about proper break in and warranty. Something as important as this should have had a special page of colored paper to highlight it and make sure that the installer did so properly. Perhaps when I remove the rotors there is an indication marking them as 'left' and 'right'.
I learned this the hard way. I thoroughly read the instructions and the box and installed them last July. Now that I am having terrible vibration, I looked up their website to find their phone number (not listed-you have to email them). In their FAQ section, they have pictures showing the proper way to install the rotors. I am very annoyed that none of this was in the instructions, nor any of the additional sheets of paper with warnings about proper break in and warranty. Something as important as this should have had a special page of colored paper to highlight it and make sure that the installer did so properly. Perhaps when I remove the rotors there is an indication marking them as 'left' and 'right'.
#19
Unless I missed it you forgot a VERY important step right at the start. Jack stands. Anyone who would work on a jacked up car without them is also known as an organ donor.
Seriously though, NEVER work on a car on a jack.
Brwbier
Seriously though, NEVER work on a car on a jack.
Brwbier
#20