whopper

And the local dealer wanted $85 for a single rear bushing (just the part alone, not including installation). Nope, did not go that route.

Sno White

I just finished this job again for the third time last week. I can say it gets easier with practice. This time was different because I did remove the worn out rear vertical bushing and pressed in a new one. The previous two times I used a complete new LC arm.

First off removing the bushing is not at all a problem if you have a large vice to clamp the LCA in and a cold chisel to deform the old bushing as in this video: Actually, this guy doesn't even use a vice.

About 1 min in the video shows the removal of the bad bushing. Just don't deform the inner race for the new bushing with that chisel. I've seen other videos where a professional shop used an air impact chisel and the bushing was out in about 5 - 10 seconds. This tool is not generally available to us DIYers.

Pressing in the new bushing would not be easy without a press(which I had access to) or a self made apparatus with pipes or large sockets, etc.

Getting that large bolt back in was easy this time. I pried the two pieces of sheet metal apart that hold this particular bushing with a framing pry bar. This separation also helped with just getting the LCA located back in as well.

The pry bar I used is this:
Flat Pry Bar
with a few chosen pieces of wood for backing.

For those of you who think prying the pieces of sheet metal apart might effect things: My thoughts were that you are going to torque this bolt to 74 Lb. Ft. and then add in another 180 degrees of rotation - this will surely put the slight metal deformation back into place.

If I were to do this again I would try two nuts and a bolt for separating the sheet metal. Put the nuts inside where the bushing goes and the bolt up from underneath, using an open end wrench on the lower nut, keeping the upper nut stationary and a socket to hold the bolt stationary to expand the sheet metal. Just need nuts and bolt close to the same diameter as that big bolt.

The bushing was from O'Reilly Auto Parts and was under $20.00.
Dorman 905-508 - this bushing had the holes or webbing like the GM bushings do. Many of the after market bushings are completely solid rubber. I marked where the webbing was missing and aligned the new bushing to the same locations.

Maximus Max

I think I'm picking up what you're putting down.

Maximus Max

Thanks for all the replies. I'm just going to buy two new aluminum arms with all the bushings in place and call it a day. That's what I did with my newfangled "donut" gasket on my exhaust, just replaced the entire dang thing.

Sno White

That's what I did initially. After you have the old LCA out and you can see them sitting around the shop/garage for a while you might have second thoughts for the next time service is needed.

Make sure you order the correct arms; look in the glove box to see if there is a FE1, FE3 or another FE code and order the correct ones. I ordered wrong once.

Maximus Max

I just bought these from a site called CARiD.com ? Auto Parts & Accessories | Car, Truck, SUV, Jeep that I believe was recomended here but I can't find it now. You can't find them cheaper anywhere and only $10 shipping too. Great deal.

http://www.carid.com/2009-chevy-hhr-...-21661611.html

donbrew

So, never heard of eBay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-FRONT-LOWER-CONTROL-ARM-W-BUSHINGS-AND-BALL-JOINTS-LEFT-RIGHT-SIDE-PAIR-KIT-/351180512090?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AHHR&hash=item51c3fd5b5a&vxp=mtr

Maximus Max

I saw those. Went for the Moog's.

donbrew

You really think they come from a different factory?

Okay. I don't care enough to type anymore about it.

Carid is a supporting vendor of this site. Don't confuse advertisements as recommendations.

donbrew

I just had to do mine on the 2011 this weekend. That is the second time I have done the job (last on the 2008).

The reason I did them this time: I noticed that the RF tire was wearing on the outside edge, then whilst rotating the tires I noticed that I could clearly see that the RF wheel was hanging at a much greater angle than the LF. ( I / )

I had a set in the garage that I bought a year ago along with a set of new tires waiting for 6,000 more miles (that's 6 weeks).

Half way through wrestling with the second ball joint I said to myself "why didn't you just loosen the 3 nuts holding the upper strut support?". Anyway, even with wrestling it only took 1 hour per side. On the floor, no lift jack stands only.

That odd click feel you get when turning the wheel at parking lot speed: GONE! Travel down even crested roadway: hands off! Road feel: it's back! Most of the vibrations (except the 2 bent rims): gone!

Now since it's clear that the last alignment guy (when I hit a curb REAL hard) didn't notice the bad bushings I will be needing a new alignment.

The right side was torn near the center, both had radial wear toward the outside (maybe normal), the left had "dry rot" going on.

I thought ahead enough to test the bushing with the screwdriver under it method before and after: THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE!
Seems to me the only way to actually check them is to look really closely (that is tough to do), or to look at the CAMBER readings. In my case I could see the difference without using a bubble level. If you set a level on center the camber should be close to level, at least between the lines of a carpenter's level. You CANNOT change the caster without bending the car.