clicking noise from left front suspension area.
02-26-2015, 06:02 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: 06-19-2013
Location: Southern NJ
Posts: 181
i had this. it comes and goes. click, click, click with each rotation. sometimes front, sometimes rear.
it was my HUBCAPS
I folded up some cardstock, wedged it between the hubcap and wheel, roadtest, and immdeiately gone.
it was my HUBCAPS
I folded up some cardstock, wedged it between the hubcap and wheel, roadtest, and immdeiately gone.
02-26-2015, 07:09 PM
#13
Thread Starter
Join Date: 02-26-2015
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 8
"the end of the axle was already loose in the hub" does that mean that you pulled the hub off, does it mean that the nut was loose, does it mean that the axle has play in it, does it mean that there is play between the hub and the axle? Or, any of the other possible areas that it could be loose.
IF there is play in the splines there is something wrong. IF the axle nut was loose there is something wrong. Axle play is normal.
Maybe something else is loose? Like the chin spoiler? Somebody once found a Dr. Pepper cap in the alternator making noise. Somebody once found a plastic bag stuck on something.
I think the hub is most likely bad. Hub end play should be less than .005 inch.
IF there is play in the splines there is something wrong. IF the axle nut was loose there is something wrong. Axle play is normal.
Maybe something else is loose? Like the chin spoiler? Somebody once found a Dr. Pepper cap in the alternator making noise. Somebody once found a plastic bag stuck on something.
I think the hub is most likely bad. Hub end play should be less than .005 inch.
02-26-2015, 07:11 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: 02-26-2015
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 8
Nope... hubcap was on tight.
02-27-2015, 11:48 AM
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: 02-26-2015
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 8
Great News!
I happen to have a subscription to 'alldata' and was studying the noise diagnostics chart for the suspension. One of the 'points' was to insure that the axle nut was torqued to proper specifications. As you may recall, I had mentioned that upon removing the axle nut the axle itself was already loose (I'm referring to 'in/out movement 'Donbrew'... not lateral or 'slop' in the axle/hub bearing fit ).
I checked all parts and everything seems to exhibit no significant wear. The only thing was the axle was already loose in the hub. This could really only be caused if the axle nut had not actually been fully seated and torqued as it should be. My wife had the car tires rotated at a local tire shop and there had been a 'free brake inspection' performed. I'm now of the opinion that someone had removed the rotor and in doing so had failed to properly torque the axle nut when re-installing it, allowing a tiny amount of 'play' in the axle and hub.
I think this is what was causing the mysterious click that was audible when the components were cold but went away as they warmed up. The juncture point of the axle and hub was slightly moving and got hot from the friction. I had noticed on inspection of the hub 'race' that there was some 'blueing' indicating that the race had been getting hot. The race got hotter than the axle and expanded, which took out the slight looseness. This caused the 'clicking' to go away as the car was driven.
I re-installed all parts and insured everything was torqued to the proper specifications then took it for a test drive; and guess what? No more 'clicking noise!Happy ending.
There are some things to be learned from this;
1.it's far more reasonable to eliminate the simple stuff (like a poor torque, for example) before throwing down money for parts.
2. If you want the job done correctly and know that it was done correctly, get the training, get the tools, and do it yourself. In God I trust, everyone else is suspect.
I happen to have a subscription to 'alldata' and was studying the noise diagnostics chart for the suspension. One of the 'points' was to insure that the axle nut was torqued to proper specifications. As you may recall, I had mentioned that upon removing the axle nut the axle itself was already loose (I'm referring to 'in/out movement 'Donbrew'... not lateral or 'slop' in the axle/hub bearing fit ).
I checked all parts and everything seems to exhibit no significant wear. The only thing was the axle was already loose in the hub. This could really only be caused if the axle nut had not actually been fully seated and torqued as it should be. My wife had the car tires rotated at a local tire shop and there had been a 'free brake inspection' performed. I'm now of the opinion that someone had removed the rotor and in doing so had failed to properly torque the axle nut when re-installing it, allowing a tiny amount of 'play' in the axle and hub.
I think this is what was causing the mysterious click that was audible when the components were cold but went away as they warmed up. The juncture point of the axle and hub was slightly moving and got hot from the friction. I had noticed on inspection of the hub 'race' that there was some 'blueing' indicating that the race had been getting hot. The race got hotter than the axle and expanded, which took out the slight looseness. This caused the 'clicking' to go away as the car was driven.
I re-installed all parts and insured everything was torqued to the proper specifications then took it for a test drive; and guess what? No more 'clicking noise!Happy ending.
There are some things to be learned from this;
1.it's far more reasonable to eliminate the simple stuff (like a poor torque, for example) before throwing down money for parts.
2. If you want the job done correctly and know that it was done correctly, get the training, get the tools, and do it yourself. In God I trust, everyone else is suspect.
02-27-2015, 12:55 PM
#18
Administrator
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,519
I reread my post #2 and see that I gave the torque specs and just assumed that a re torque and test drive would have confirmed the hub was good or bad.
The blue you mention from heat would warrant replacment of the hub as it should not get that hot
The blue you mention from heat would warrant replacment of the hub as it should not get that hot
02-27-2015, 02:19 PM
#19
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,698
You do not remove the axle nut to do ANYTHING to the brakes.
Had you defined the "loose" to begin with. We all would have suggested the nut. I know that's why I asked.
The "blue ing" is from welding in the factory.
Had you defined the "loose" to begin with. We all would have suggested the nut. I know that's why I asked.
The "blue ing" is from welding in the factory.