Ijazzu

I really appreciate all of your responses.

QUESTION: Do you have an early 2.4 and have you had to change the oil cooler seals?
If your answer is no,then you really don't know what I am talking about.

It is NOT easy to get the lower bolt out & some people think that you have to drop the transmission in order to get the bolt out.

An expert on seals-informed me that the original seals(the orange ones) were NOT made of simple rubber. The NEW black ones appear to be simple rubber.

The changes to the motor(if I am to believe posts on this site) are:durability enhancing features such as increased coolant capacity and targeted oil jets that cool the underside of the pistons, and Optimized Piston Skirt. I would like to see a picture of an early 2.4 piston and the later 2.4 piston.

YES! I want to make it easier to change the oil cooler seals for all the people that have an early 2.4! As you can see from my pictures-I had to MAKE a tool to remove & install the lower oil cooler bolt. The oil cooler relocate adaptor would make it SUPER EASY to replace the seals & it would keep the oil cooler.

firemangeorge

Here's

Seems like it would be a lot of time, work and money for what results ? With this relocation, you might have to change seals again once or maybe twice in the lifetime of the car ?
I'm not knocking the idea, just the benefits.

Here's an alternative. Try to upgrade to some better made seals for the stock cooler. O-ring or seal manufacturing companies make them in just about any size, style and material type for just about any application.
I'm sure there is a correct size seal made from a better material than the replacement "plain" rubber ones you described.

Oldblue

Your special tool appears to be a socket and an Allan wrench to fit the open end wrench, which could easily be a socket and 6 inch extension and a ratchet wrench most likely in 3/8 drive .
The original orange o rings and the replacement black one would be neoprene as simple rubber would not stand up to the heat

db/sb

O-rings are not color-coded. Black o rings could be made of almost everything. You need to look the actual temperature, environment and fluid it comes in contact with to choose a material. I've worked in HVAC extensively over the years and the green ones (HNBR) that are widely used in HVAC/MVAC are about the only ones you can be fairly sure of the material based on color.

I'd want something more than neoprene there since the temp can be above 250°. For that, I'd use a fluorocarbon or silicon o ring or even a fluorosilicone or HNBR though either of those would actually be overkill.

Not sure I'd take credit for 'making' a tool in your scenario. Essentially, all you really did is combine existing tools for a particular use which we've all done on occasion.

Ijazzu

Your comments are GREAT!

But I have to hear from someone that has changed the seals? I have read of 2 people on here that started & never finished there story. I have also saw a person on YouTube change the seals & he used a much harder method to remove the hidden bolt.

The ONLY reason I showed (THE TOOL) was because some people on this site were under the belief that the transmission had to be dropped,to remove the oil cooler.

I hope I am able to help someone that is dealing with the same thing I am.

donbrew

I guess it was in one of your other threads that I made the comment "it is not the color of the O-ring it's the COMPOUND".

Sorry, since I don't have a 2006 2.4L I should not have offered that. I am gone.

Ijazzu

It's cool @ Donbrew,

I know the color of the seal is of NO importance, it is compound of which it made. I just said that because the original seals are orange(as you see in the photo) and the NEW seals are black. Maybe they changed the color,just like they decided the oil cooler was not needed(JK). I would love to upgrade to a BETTER SEAL-but NO ONE has referred me to a product that they have used.

I am NOT trying to market or sale THE TOOL-I only offered it as a option to remove the HIDDEN BOLT. If ANYONE has removed there oil cooler,using a different method please share your information with us?

A socket and an extension WILL NOT WORK-IT WILL HIT THE TRANSMISSION. NO MATTER HOW SMALL IT IS.

donbrew

I checked Mitchell out; they say the removal procedure is"
1) remove the bolts
2) remove the cooler

That's the entire procedure. No mention of transmission at all.

BTW, there are 2 different seal part numbers 12581508 and 12581509.
429 and 430 in the pic. I am guessing that they are made out of one of the BUNA compounds.

db/sb

GM Service Information shows the same:
No mention of transmission removal.

Ijazzu

I feel that if you encounter a problem or something that fails-you should fix it, and if possible repair it to the point that it will NEVER fail again. That is what a good mechanic or engineer would and should do.

The adapter not only relocates the the oil cooler,it also does away with oil seals. I think I have a line on the maker of the adapter and I will keep you updated on the results.

Also the oil seals I got from the dealer has a part # 12601371 & 12601372 maybe this why they are black as opposed to orange. In Dunbrew's post he gave different part numbers.
I am in 100% agreement,that the color is NOT important.

I know that you DO NOT have to drop the transmission to remove the oil cooler(I removed mine without dropping the trans). THE PROBLEM IS: There is NO ROOM to get to the bottom bolt.