corona36

I'm currently working my way through swapping out my front suspension. I got to the point where I remove the nut that connects the strut to the sway bar link and it just spins. I scratched the bolt end and I can see that the nut isn't coming off just spinning the bolt.

I tried penetrating oil and got nowhere. Tried ratcheting it really fast and nothing. Tried wedging a chisel between the link and the mount and still no luck.

I just hit Harbor Freight and picked up an impact wrench. It's too late tonight to go back out and try again but I will be back at it tomorrow morning. Any chance I'll be in luck with the impact or am I screwed and need professional help?

firemangeorge

If it's that corroded and the nut is frozen, just cut it off and then replace the sway bar link. Best to replace both sides.

corona36

That's what I figured. My links won't be here until next friday so I was figuring on replacing the struts and sway bar bushings today and then being able to check everything out next week when I put on the links. Guess I'll wait. Hopefully the other end of the link isn't stuck too.

What would be the best way to cut it off anyway? Hacksaw?

firemangeorge

A sawzall if you can get it in there. A hacksaw would work, but that's a lot of manual labor.
A nut splitter might even work if you happen to have one.

Before you cut it, give the impact a try. You may get lucky.

whopper

I had a similar issue - but I undid the other end cleanly, and just levered the link off the stuck ball-end (it almost came off on its own - the socket was badly badly worn). A pair of vice grips and a ratchet and off it came.

donbrew

A thin vice grip on the back side works, if the hex flats are not there to put a wrench on.

jmm121783

I am having this same issue with my coil over install.

Bottom bolt on both sides is complete crap, got one side off and done using the vise grips but my passenger side I cannot get off. Vice grips have chewed everything up and I have even ripped the end link off of its bottom ball joint to have more areas to vice grip but still no luck.

Trying to figure out where to grind this ***** off....

08HHRPA

I just replaced both end links this morning. What a crappy design.

Sure, there are flats on the stud on the original end links to get a backup wrench in there, but it's a joke, even with good penetrating oil and patience. After I delivered the requisite profanity laced lecture directed at said vehicle, I got out my reciprocating saw (Sawzall) and cut off the top stud.

Once the top end of the link was freed up, I just pulled the link off the bottom stud. It was that bad, it came right off in my hand. I used a big vise grip on the exposed stud and got the nut off the bottom.

I used the Moog 750012 links, they came with zerk fittings already installed. Noise is gone, car drives like new.

If you're going to do this yourself, the reciprocating saw is a life saver. Those studs would not have come off for me any other way.

I thought about a nut splitter, but I already had a sawzall. 18T metal cutting blade and it was history.

esmarkey

I have replaced many stabilizer bar links and the bolt ALWAYS spins. It's not that the bolt is coroded, the threads are designed to resist coming loose so there is a lot of resistance. You will notice this on the the new ones after you get the nut all the way engaged, but they usually have a "flat" on the back side so you can put a wrench on the back side and hold it.
The thin vise grips are what I use to hold it front spinning to get the factory ones off. Kind of hard to get a sawzall in there to cut it.

esmarkey

Doug, the links on this car ARE a crappy design! I have put the moog greasable "problem solvers" on mine and they last a little longer, but still need to be replaced after 50K - 60K. The factory ones usually quit after 40K!