Chevy HHR Network Forums
Search

Welcome to the Chevy HHR Network forums. The Chevy HHR Network is the leading resource for Chevy HHR owners.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our FREE community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Register Forgot Password?
-
Go Back   Chevy HHR Network > General Discussion > "How To" Tutorial Library > Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve Replacement (w. pics) - P0010/11 P0013/14
-

"How To" Tutorial Library Write tips and instructions on how to install parts or fix problems. This is for detailed "How To's" only, not a forum to ask how to do something. Please post those questions in appropriate forums.

Reply
 
 
 
submit to reddit
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-25-2010, 03:22 PM   #1
whopper
Moderator
 
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Member #: 757
Posts: 2,963
Images: 55
Check out my gallery 
Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve Replacement (w. pics) - P0010/11 P0013/14

Here is a description of what is involved in the replacing of the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoids on a 2.4L 2006 HHR (also applies with possible variations as necessary to the 2.0 Turbo in the SS, and the 2.2 with VVT, but not the early 2.2's that did not come with VVT).



As of March 2013: (still valid as far as I know, as of March 2014)
Here is a list from the Oldest to Newest GM Part numbers for the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valves:
------------------------------
Intake 12628347 = 12646783 = 12655420
Exhaust 12628348 = 12646784 = 12655421

Dorman Part Numbers:
917-216 for exhaust
917-215 for intake

** check the last few pages of this thread for any further updated part numbers in case this has not been updated



and to recap on the CEL codes:
------------
P0010/11 refers to the INTAKE solenoid
P0013/14 refers to the EXHAUST solenoid

NOTE #1: they are SOLENOIDS, not "sensors"!!!! they are two different things!! Several members have purchased sensors in error as advised by an auto parts store who mis-interpret the CEL diagnostic codes

NOTE #2: if you have not downloaded the CEL codes, please do so. If you have come to this posting looking for solutions to hard shifting of the transmission, be aware that there are several other components that can cause hard shifting other than the solenoids. Downloading the CEL codes will clarify where the problem is actually sourced from.



Time: 45 minutes (max.)

Tools used: screwdriver, ratchet with 6 inch extension and 10MM deep socket, small pair of needle-nose vice grips


1a) disconnect the NEGATIVE post on the car's battery (it is in the trunk) - do NOT disconnect the positive post, nor short out the negative post to the positive post - you can get seriously hurt otherwise.

1b) as the air box needs to be removed to get to the solenoids, start with undoing the MAP sensor which is located under the front leading edge of the airbox (press down on the top of the clip to release the lock, and pull gently) - lay the connector aside in a protected spot
Here is a picture of the connector, just to the right of the intake plumbing
Click the image to open in full size.


2) loosen the intake plumbing from the front of the airbox, by loosing the screw holding the clamp shown in the above picture (at the 7 o'clock position from the MAP sensor)

3) gently work and pull the now loosened pipe free of the airbox (shown here with airbox removed)
Click the image to open in full size.


4) the airbox is held in place with two grommets at the back of the airbox and one in the front left side next to the rad fill cap. Each grommet snaps onto a short mounting bolt. I prefer to remove the front mount first as it seems more delicate and prone to breaking accidently: you can see the mounting point just to the left of the cap - grab the shaft of the mount from the airbox and pull it free by lifting straight up about an inch or so. Do NOT attempt to pull up on the whole airbox yet. (keep reading)
Click the image to open in full size.


This is a shot of the grommet mounting bolt with the airbox removed:
Click the image to open in full size.


Disconnect the rear of the airbox by lifting up on the rearside to free it from the grommets. This is what the grommet mounting posts and mounting bracket look like with the airbox removed:
Click the image to open in full size.

Note: the grommets that hold the airbox often deteriorate over time, and may not be reusable. Gm calls this part an "Insulator". It's part #12563914, and it's current list is $3.47 as of July 2012 according to one member here.

5) The airbox should now be free of the mounting grommets, the intake plumbing and the MAP sensor, BUT will still be connected to the air intake pipe at the back left side of the airbox - loosen it's clamp and disconnect the pipe from the airbox.
Shot of the intake pipe attached to the airbox - note the clamps screw faces DOWN - Helpful hint: reverse the clamp so the screw is on top to make it easier to disconnect and reconnect with the airbox in place
Click the image to open in full size.


6) The top of the engine with the airbox removed should now look like this:
Click the image to open in full size.

Note: the solenoids are on the left side right next to the plug coil pack

7) Remove the connectors at the top of the solenoids (remove them both to prevent accidents) by pulling up on the grey clip until you can work a small screw driver between it and the black lock and remove the grey clip - now you can depress the black lock mechanism to free the connector from the top of the solenoid. (see post #397 in this thread for HHR4dad's pictures showing the clip removal using a small screwdriver - be careful, as some people have used the wrong process and broken the clip)

Kudos to member Slide_Rite, who gave this suggestion for removing the clips, using the nozzle from a can of WD-40 as shown in this picture:
Click the image to open in full size.


8) Use compressed air to remove any dirt/debris collected around the base of the solenoids.
NOTE: the markings on the top of the valve cover to the left of the solenoids which indicates the location of the Intake and Exhaust solenoids

Close-up shot of the immediate area:
Click the image to open in full size.


9) Once the area is clean, use a 10mm deep socket to remove the mounting bolt for the solenoid to be replaced. Warning: if you are replacing both solenoids, replace them one at a time to lessen the chance of dropping something down into the mounting holes.
Once the bolt is removed, you should be able to rotate/twist the solenoid SLIGHTLY to loosen it, then pull it straight up and out of the engine. I used a small pair of needle-nose vise-grips to gently get a grip on the metal part of the solenoid and carefully removed it. If you do the same, be careful not to crush the solenoid.

10) Now the solenoid is removed, inspect the cavity and remove any dirt debris that might have "accidently" dropped in - apply some oil to the shaft and o-ring of the new solenoid, and carefully insert it into the engine. Once it is properly in place you will have to give it a downward push to get it to snap into position with the o-ring. Install the retaining bolt and snug it down(sorry, I don't know the torque value - but it is probably about 7-9 ft/lbs my guess)
Click the image to open in full size.


11) Now do the same with the other solenoid to replace it - remove mounting bolt/pull the solenoid, oil and reinsert the new solenoid

12) re-attach the electrical connectors to the top of the solenoids (make sure you use the correct connector for each one)

13) put a dab of silicone grease on the three mounting studs for the airbox, as well as on the grommets on the airbox - reinstall the airbox.

14) reattach the air intake hose at the back of the airbox and tighten the clamp

15) reattach the pipe to the front of the airbox, and tighten the clamp

16) reattach the MAP sensor to the front bottom side of the airbox.

17) reconnect the negative post on the battery

16) Almost done - now please >>> double-check the MAP sensor to make sure it is securely plugged into the front bottom side of the airbox <<<

Done!! Now go fire the car up to ensure it runs.

================================================== ================================================== ====

And if you made it to the end of this posting, here is a great description of how it all works found by ChevyGuySS:

Circuit/System Description
The camshaft position (CMP) actuator system enables the engine control module (ECM) to change the timing of the camshafts while the engine is operating. The CMP actuator solenoid signal from the ECM is pulse width modulated (PWM). The ECM controls the CMP actuator solenoid duty cycle by controlling the amount of solenoid ON time. The CMP actuator solenoid controls the advance or the retard of each camshaft. The CMP actuator solenoid controls the oil flow that applies the pressure to advance or retard the camshafts.

Conditions for Running the DTC
• The engine speed is greater than 520 RPM.
• The engine control module (ECM) has enabled the CMP actuator.
• The calculated engine oil temperature is between −48 and +180C (−54 and +356F).
• The engine coolant temperature is between −48 and +143C (−54 and +289F).
• The CMP actuator is steady for 2 seconds.
• DTCs P0011 and P0014 run continuously when the above conditions are met.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
The ECM detects that the difference between the desired CMP actuator angle and the actual CMP actuator angle is more than 8 degrees for greater than for 20 seconds.

Last edited by whopper; 04-10-2014 at 01:53 AM. Reason: added Dorman part numbers to start of posting
whopper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2010, 04:33 PM   #2
ChevyMgr
Super Moderator
 
ChevyMgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-23-2007
Location: Texas
Member #: 4865
Posts: 8,367
Images: 707
Check out my gallery 
Nice work!
__________________
Some things I know, Some things I don't

ChevyMgr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2010, 10:14 PM   #3
whopper
Moderator
 
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Member #: 757
Posts: 2,963
Images: 55
Check out my gallery 
It's a pleasure ChevyMgr - and thanks for posting the pictures properly and embedding them - looks much better.
Cheers
whopper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2010, 02:44 AM   #4
sleeper
Platinum Member
 
sleeper's Avatar
 
Join Date: 01-09-2007
Location: SE USA
Member #: 2558
Posts: 11,406
Images: 3
Check out my gallery 
Thumbs up

Excellent write up & pics...
__________________


..........2008 HHR Panel 2LT "Southern Edition"..........
sleeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2010, 03:51 AM   #5
whopper
Moderator
 
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Member #: 757
Posts: 2,963
Images: 55
Check out my gallery 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeper View Post
Excellent write up & pics...
Thank you - hopefully someone will get some helpful info from the write-up..

It's been a month now, and the initial problems with the hard shifting, engine check light, and codes being thrown are all gone.

However the car is in the body shop now since a tree fell on it last weekend. LOL - all one can do is laugh.
whopper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2010, 11:07 AM   #6
mr.hhrpr
 
Join Date: 04-02-2010
Location: yabucoa,pr
Member #: 20216
Posts: 1
Check out my gallery 
mines has the same problem and i did what it said here and i still haved i did this today do i have to wait 4 the computer to reset or what thanks
mr.hhrpr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2010, 12:10 PM   #7
whopper
Moderator
 
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Member #: 757
Posts: 2,963
Images: 55
Check out my gallery 
What were the codes generated by the Engine check light initially? I'm not exactly positive, but I suspect that your Engine Check light is still on? If so, you will need to reset the codes being generated. You can do that by disconnecting the battery for a minute or two and connecting it back up. That will reset the codes/lights and restore the proper operation of the transmission shifting etc.. If that does not cure it, you need to plug in a diagnostic tester to determine what the current code(s) are being generated, and start troubleshooting from there.
whopper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2010, 03:41 PM   #8
jmc2009
 
Join Date: 07-17-2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Member #: 15931
Posts: 6
Check out my gallery 
Fixed - YEAH!!!

I had P0011 error code and the CEL and T/C lights on. Replaced both intake and exhaust solenoids and now the problem is gonna and has been for 2 weeks. The parts together cost about $100 and an hour worth of my time. Thanks for the detailed procedure that made the replacement quicker.
jmc2009 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2010, 12:29 PM   #9
whopper
Moderator
 
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Member #: 757
Posts: 2,963
Images: 55
Check out my gallery 
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmc2009 View Post
I had P0011 error code and the CEL and T/C lights on. Replaced both intake and exhaust solenoids and now the problem is gonna and has been for 2 weeks. The parts together cost about $100 and an hour worth of my time. Thanks for the detailed procedure that made the replacement quicker.
Glad it helped out. Now get out there and drive!!!
whopper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2010, 09:44 AM   #10
phill_ward
 
Join Date: 05-16-2010
Location: Iowa
Member #: 20951
Posts: 4
Check out my gallery 
Help!!

just joined this forum and have the TC and CEL problem and need to change the selinoids, where can I get those parts?!?! (great write up by the way!!)
phill_ward is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2010, 09:44 AM
 
 
 
submit to reddit
Reply

Tags
camshaft postion actuator solenoid, p0010 p0011 p0013 p0014, traction control
   
 

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:36 AM.
vBulletin copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. Vb Style © vb-skins.com

Advertising - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Cookies - Jobs

Copyright © 2005 - 2013 Internet Brands, Inc. All rights reserved.
Chevy HHR Network Forums