The outer shell means nothing. Is the inlet hole ID the same as the outlet ID?

 

Dan has a pic of the PCV in post #31. I ground off the lip where the O-ring is, and clamped the 1/2" ID hose directly to the outer shell. Seemed like the easiest way to incorporate the original PCV without building a housing for it. Then I clamped 5/16" ID hose to the outlet of the PCV. The outlet end is smaller than the inlet end.

 

A word of caution to anyone about to tap their intake manifold. I advise that you tap a little and test your fitting into it, especially if you are putting a plug in for later use. I ran my tap in as far as it would go, just until it touched the bottom of the runner.

The fitting I got, I don't know if it isn't tapered or what, but it did not tighten satisfactorily. I ended up putting pipe dope and a bunch of pipe tape, and it still ran all the way down til it hit the shoulder of the fitting.

As I mentioned before, the aluminum is kinda thin here. The aluminum set screws I got are only about 1/4" deep, and probably would have been very difficult to seal.

I flooded the manifold valley with water from a turkey baster, it doesn't seem to be sucking any water in at idle, so that's good.

And for those about to rock... We salute you!!

 

Aluminum set screws would be straight threaded a pipe plug would have a NPT tapered thread to seal the threads into the female fitting

 

Here's a link to another great company making catch-cans for 'boosted' DI engines...
15 Mustang 2.3 Ecoboost Dual Valve Oil Catch Can Separator

I saw their test-car, a 2.3 DI turbo Mustang go down the track Wednesday night at Orlando Speed World dragstrip.
It went 11.29@120 MPH on a 35 shot of NOS...
It lifted the front a few inches at launch...
Aiming for the sky! - 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, GT350, GT500, Ecoboost, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

This was the 1st time that NOS has been used on a turbo DI 4 cylinder engine...

 

Even if the set screw were NPT? Either way, had I not run the tap quite so far in, it would have been a better fit, because the tap is also tapered. I suspect this aluminum 1/8" MPT x 5/16" hose fitting is not tapered.



On another note, these are the catch cans that I got at Home Depot.


The first one I got, the drain valve would not seal. I returned it, and that one sealed. Now that it's installed it no longer seals.
Rather than pull it out, replace it, and keep cycling through these cheap things, I found these at Autozone, nice tight fit on the nipple.

 

If you'd like to fix the threads in your intake RJ, you can do what I had to. The proper tool for this shallow location would be a 1/8"NPT bottoming tap. Since I don't have much use for one and they are rather expensive, I made my own. I just cut the 1/8"NPT tap in half so that I could use the larger taper at the end. Since you don't want to damage the intake with the new cut off threads. Pick up a female 1/8" fitting that you can run the tap through a few times to clean the threads.

 

I think that would make it worse. Removing more material from the manifold hole would make the fitting an even looser fit. It seems to not be leaking, but I was concerned. I just wanted to warn others not to just run the tap in so far; tap a little, check the fit. It seems different fittings are, well, different.

 

RJ, some of the air filters on the market have what are called automatic drains, they are spring loaded to open at a low pressure to blow the water out. The ones from Harbor freight are like that, The Northern tool filters have a fitting/drain that you have to screw CCW to open and drain.

I am in the process of making a test can, I'm waiting for all the stuff to come in. I should be (hopefully) done with it next week some time.

 

Yeah, I remember you mentioned the automatic ones before, you said that was not desirable for this application. These have a little handle that will turn around forever, vertical is open, horizontal is closed. Packaging says manual drain, I find nothing in the paperwork to indicate otherwise.