To be honest, I am constantly dealing with root cause analyses at my job. Any modification or repair requires a predictable, controlled proceedure.

In the case of Duraseal crimp and seal splices, the proceedure is much more controlled than a solder joint. It seems to be assumed here than any idiot can solder, but I have seen idiots who do not tin the conductors first, do not apply the proper amount of heat to both conductors at the same time and either transfer heat too long or too short to make a reliable connection. I have seen some connections "fluxed" or "burned" together (in mission critical HVAC mod and rep). Soldering becomes artwork in this case.

Think of the liability to GM if the repairs to airbag systems were of an inconsistent proceedure (which is what these connectors were designed for). You'd be looking at something of magnatitude that would dwarf the Toyota accelerator issue.

We're only talking MAP sensors for a fun car. Not an occupant protection device. Do you think that they don't work as well for MAP sensors than for an occupant protection device?

Bottom line is that one method is good or not as good as the other. The Duraseal method happens to be the spec. If you find a tech that can solder better than following GM Duraseal crimp and seal proceedure, than that's fine. If the tech can't solder, but can follow proceedure, maybe that's the best route. In either case none is better than the other if the workmanship is not acceptable.

The dealer that I have used was used by more than a few in this group and all have verified their competance. Maybe this dealer is a "proceedure" dealer. Those who may not have the proper tooling may have techs that are proficient in electronic soldering instead.

As I stated earlier, Geeze, here we go again

 

So true!

The underlying inconsitant factor in all of this is the Human element no matter what method is used.

 

Once again, as is the case every time I visit this site, I come away with excellent insight and information of a positive nature. I appreciate all the comments. As stated earlier , I look forward to flexing the added muscle today on the now dry roads. Being an old school muscle car guy, I was expecting a little deeper exhaust note, or a lumpier idle when I first cranked up the vehicle after the install. As you guys know, that didn't happen...nothing is different at all until the pedal is mashed and then the power reveals itself and a big smile appears on your face.....

 

I know the feeling. This kind of power kind of sneaks up on you. My also Chevelle SS used to make a lot of noise and rattles but was not much faster than this little 4 cylinder. Technology is amazing.

 

greetings all
would someone be so kind as to answer a few questions?

If i buy the stage one here:
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=19212670
and have the dealer install it, is the warranty valid?

would anyone know of a dealer close to Long Island NY who has experience at installing this kit?

any other mods recommended?

thanks much !

 

1) Before someone else beats me to it: try the search function! Lot's of info has already covered that topic. The kit's warrantied, period UNLESS you try to install it yourself. As long as it's installed at a qualified GM dealer, it's warrantied.

2) No clue. I know Gengras Chevy in Hartford CT did mine w/ no problems, and I bought the kit from crateenginedepot. They're a pretty decent dealer IMO.

3) As far as what else to do: how deep are your pockets, and how fast do you want to go?

 

My local dealer has done many and gives you a flat rate for the install. No surprises. Many in the group have had theirs done at this dealer as well and nobody that I know of has ever had problems. They are in Newburgh, NY about a mile east of Orange County Choppers on the same side of 17k. No dropoff necessary. I waited for mine while it was being done and it was obvious that the tech new what he was doing.

 

thanks !
would you have the dealers name?