I am not sure how the kit was installed; I had it done last spring at a different dealer that had plenty of experience installing them. The stage kit had worked fine until just a couple days ago.

 

I had mine soldered and still have this same problem.

 

I hope I don't go through too much... the car will set the check engine light pretty regularly now. It's not like an on and off problem; it's pretty repeatable.

 

There are numerous threads on this and other sites about the DTC P0299 code. Pitbull76's experience and mine are exactly the same and paralleled by other turbo powered engines. At the end of the day, it's either a turbo injector nipple or the lower turbo tube knocking the lower MAP sensor out of scheme. My local GM service writer is a turbo guy but his techs are amateurs. My car is sitting in the bay waiting for a tech who can spell tech; thanks to this and other sites is loaded with all the TSB/SI stuff out there. Fingers crossed. My guy is a turbo pro but isn't a Chevy pro - likes "turbo timers" to make sure the turbo oil flow on shut down is good. He spotted the problem right away on a test drive - we're focused on the details.

Thanks again for the daily dealer episodes.

 

mine hasn't set a code since I took out the K&N filter and went back to the stocker. It just doesn't run like it's supposed to. Next on my checklist is to see whether or not the lower sensor is hitting the AC compressor as this could cause reduced engine power. I'm all out of options after that. I want to get the Trifecta tune on top of the GM stage kit but not until I get this **** figured out. I haven't had time to take it back to the dealer, keep me updated on your situation and hopefully this is something we can get resolved. When I had it at the dealer last feb for loss of boost the code was P0101 which is a MAF sensor, they wanted to bang me for a new one and void the warranty due to the K&N. I said to hell with it and bought some MAF cleaner and put the stock filter back in.

 

We don't need the turbo timers...the turbo is water cooled...so you don't have the heat soak and coking problems of the non cooled turbo's

 

Is it really? All this time I'm making sure I let the car idle for at least 1 1/2 -2 minutes after I drove it hard just to make sure I didn't cause any damages to the turbo.

 

I know this to be true, since my Turbo Coolant Bypass Valve "Blew" on my car right after I got it. Took them 19 days to get the part. But it is liquid cooled for sure.

SPPD

 

Well, it was back at the dealer today and I think they figured out what it was. It was a nipple on some of the turbo piping, but not the one involved in the TSB. The drawing they gave me was that it is the nipple next to one of the sensors(MAF?) changed in the stage kit. The other end of the hose goes to charge air bypass valve solenoid according to their drawing. The nipple is about 1/2 the size that it should be.

They were able to get it reconnected enough to be functional for now, but have ordered replacement parts to fix it permanently. On the way home from the dealer, boost was back to normal but I am planning on taking it a bit easy on the car until the new parts come in.

 

I have an auto w/kit and I could go on for days about when it boosts 20psi and more so when it won't. Tonight on my way home I can put it in comp mode and drive in "i" and when I roll-on at 60-70mph it will boost 20 and run right to a 100mph. If drive is in "d" and in 4th and roll-on it will do 4-3 shift then only boost 13-15psi. There is just so many situations that it will only boost 10-15 and not the 20-22 that I love. I would be so much happier if it would just boost to the max all the time with out some babysitter controlling the boost but I know it's trying to save the trans I guess.
So my point of ranting on is that you got me thinking about if this nipple you speak of has anything to do with my issues.