I have manufactured another new intake for my 2.4L HHR. I am sure it will work for the 2.2 also. I have tried and tested several iterations of this and have come up with one that is stable and doesn't light up SEL with a P171 code (bank 1 too lean). This was made out of ABS plastic and is very tough. It will work as I have it installed in the pics below, or you could use it as the MAF mount for any custom RAM intake that you may design yourself. The Filter end of the tube is 3" OD for easy fitting filters or hoses. I am considering making these and selling them to the rest of my fellow HHR Freaks here online. Take a look at what I have built and give me any feedback. I would sell the tube and bracket as a kit for $75 plus shipping - (no filter - you can buy your own prefered filter anywhere with a 3" ID)

 

Dyno charts would be nice - especially comparing it against stock.

A quick tip regarding intakes: the longer the intake runner, the more torque it makes, the shorter the runner, the higher up the rpm range it works.

And that....is a very short intake my friend!

 

for a car that has 170hp any type of intake will not make a huge difference in performance. Turbo or supercharger maybe, but intake and exhaust...waste of money and should only be done if you want your exhaust to sound louder.

 

I would also do some extensive testing with that 3" tube. Three inches has been the "standard" for several years, but we found during product development at AEM, that the HHR does not like to see a 3" air runner, it creates problems and eventually causes the computer to throw codes.

I'm not trying to shoot down your idea, just offering some constructive suggestions. I've worked in the automotive industry for over 20+ years as a magazine editor, and have been involved with many manufacturers in prototyping aftermarket parts.

One other thing; if you plan to sell these, you would be required by law to have them approved to be "50-State Legal." Might want to check into this as well.

Best of luck,

 

Clarification: the intake tube is 3" OD at the filter end. ID of the tube at the MAF is smaller. A little larger than stock, but as you stated, you can't go very much larger, because it will eventually throw codes if it doesn't see the correct air flow rate (which is determined by the tube diameter). I tried every diameter from stock air box ID (2.355") all the way to 3.00" in increments of .050" and have settled on the largest ID that will not throw codes for this design - that was a long process. Nothing like putting a new intake tube on and getting a code in the first 30 seconds, then making another that you think will work only to have it throw a code after 50 miles, then making another that will surely work only to have it throw a code after 500 miles.

On the other comment regarding the length, you are once again correct. :-) you really don't feel a difference on the low end, but you can definitely feel it above 4000 RPM's. However, anyone could use this as the MAF adapter for any custom configuration of intake and lengthen the intake tube and get the low end that you mentioned.

Dyno Results: Don't have em, and am not planning on getting them.

 

I like the way it looks, but does it block the oil dipstick? The CGS picks up air from the whole in the wheel well. Is the air in this spot very hot from the radiator, or is the flow through the grill good?

 

Good point Lee: With this design you would need to remove the intake every time you changed the oil - as the oil filter housing is located right underneath that area. It is difficult enough getting the oil filter housing cap off without having an intake above it.

 

I think its a very good option for people who dont want to spend too much on an intake. As far as the dipstick, as long as your HHR doesnt burn oil why would you even need to use it? I'd just go by the meter on the DIC and change oil when the car tells me its time to change.

 

I thought that the DIC indicated "quality" of oil. Not "quantity".

 

you are correct about the DIC measuring quality (not quantity), but as I stated I wouldnt need to use the dipstick if my car is not burning oil (thats just me). I just use the same amount of oil everytime the oil needs changing. I see maybe removing the air filter every what...3 to 5 months if you really want to use the dipstick to check oil level? If you really want access to the dipstick anytime you want you can always buy a tube-style air filter, or even extend this intake more towards the drivers side to give clearance.