2.4L Performance Tech 16 valve 172 hp EcoTec with 162 lb-ft of torque

Overheating

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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 11:09 PM
  #11  
batsibf's Avatar
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Joined: 04-24-2015
Posts: 4
From: lubbock,tx
and just an FYI it was the thermostat, the simple water on the stove test confirmed
Old Apr 26, 2015 | 05:33 AM
  #12  
firemangeorge's Avatar
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Joined: 12-06-2009
Posts: 11,718
From: Alabama
Glad you were able to find the problem.

In most cases, a bad thermostat on the HHR will result in the car not heating up fast enough and triggering a CEL. It seems that it is usually caused by a bad rubber grommet in the thermostat itself causing it to stick partially open. Those would let the coolant flow through all the time.
You apparently had one I'm guessing that was stuck closed.

FWIW. I hope you used a GM OEM type replacement. Many of our members have reported issues when using the non-GM thermostats.
Old Apr 26, 2015 | 09:25 AM
  #13  
hhrfreek's Avatar
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Joined: 03-04-2010
Posts: 458
From: SE Wisconsin
Originally Posted by donbrew
i guess the firebird and ram forums are better at reading minds.
lol. Smh.
Old Apr 26, 2015 | 09:40 AM
  #14  
hhrfreek's Avatar
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Joined: 03-04-2010
Posts: 458
From: SE Wisconsin
Originally Posted by batsibf
hey all
we have a 2008 2.4l HHR, last winter my wife went through a deep puddle and I ended up replacing the radiator and the fan assembly, Two weeks ago it started over heating (230 on the dash read out), the fan was running and the A/C was working. I put more coolant in it but during the coolant started boiling. after doing this have not had any problem with the coolant system, until today we went across town and on the way back the temp reached 230 again, A/C was working fine. the car has not been more the 190 since we have had it
Originally Posted by batsibf
really????? symptoms you mean besides loss of coolant do you not under stand what happens when your fan hits water??????? fan + water = smiley face



people i was putting coolant in and doing the purge on a cold system ie how else do you do it but take the cap off and fill then warm up the engine i thought i was ask a question on a place where you don't need to explain every step. I just hate this new cookie cutter cars they have now
No sorry, I've never driven my car through 2 feet of water. Were you in the car? FWIW Einstein, your fan doesn't come on til the temp approaches 195 and even then it only commands roughly 5% duty cycle...you could stop it with your finger. So your never over 190 is a bunch BS. Let me think...No fan running + water = no fan running when hitting water. Quit acting like you know something about nothing. xxxx.

Last edited by donbrew; Apr 26, 2015 at 11:13 AM.
Old Apr 26, 2015 | 11:22 AM
  #15  
donbrew's Avatar
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Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,448
From: Fredericksburg,VA
The fan activate when
a) the A/C compressor is running
or b) the coolant temp reaches approx. 217F (and stays on until the temp gets down to 180F).

If you thought you knew better than GM and installed a 190F T-stat, the temp would never get back to 180F, so the fan would never go back off. That's because the T-stats job is to keep the coolant temp at LEAST the temp it is rated at.
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