Power increase
OK, for the doubters...
This image is from runs done back to back, within the hour. I have 21 dyno run files on my computer, some done at Promotion Tuning and another shop. As far as temp, humidity, etc., note at the top right where it says "CF: SAE". That is for the SAE correction factor, which is adjusted for the changes in temp, humidity, baro, etc. That does make comparisons valid under different conditions.
BTW, I can post another dyno sheet showing where there was a similar loss by simply pulling the stock intake hose from the fenderwell and tying it off in the void where the CGS filter sits. Actual digital thermocouple tests found that intake air temps increased in the 30 -40*F range drawing the hot underhood air.
Hey, I think the CGS looks cool and does sound good, but it DOES NOT make more power folks! Also, look in the vendor section and scroll back to page 4 for Promotion Tuning's thread for a deal on the CGS started on 10/7/06, just after we did the tests. He wanted to clean out his stock! I kept quiet about the tests as a courtesy to him.
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This image is from runs done back to back, within the hour. I have 21 dyno run files on my computer, some done at Promotion Tuning and another shop. As far as temp, humidity, etc., note at the top right where it says "CF: SAE". That is for the SAE correction factor, which is adjusted for the changes in temp, humidity, baro, etc. That does make comparisons valid under different conditions.
BTW, I can post another dyno sheet showing where there was a similar loss by simply pulling the stock intake hose from the fenderwell and tying it off in the void where the CGS filter sits. Actual digital thermocouple tests found that intake air temps increased in the 30 -40*F range drawing the hot underhood air.
Hey, I think the CGS looks cool and does sound good, but it DOES NOT make more power folks! Also, look in the vendor section and scroll back to page 4 for Promotion Tuning's thread for a deal on the CGS started on 10/7/06, just after we did the tests. He wanted to clean out his stock! I kept quiet about the tests as a courtesy to him.
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I have a hard time believing that dyno chart (it looks too legit). Please draw up a chart using excel and paint. That is more believable to me...lol!
These are things that are common knowledge to anyone that has ever tuned or modded an automobile. This is how people also get taken advantage of. You get someone with a decent amount of charisma that is a great salesperson and they could sell a quadrapalegic (sp) a pair of rollerskates and baseball gloves. Its sad but true. When someone comes along with truth about certain aspects of the product then the customers that were suckered into it are now hardcore believers.
FACT hot air is less dense than cold air no matter how smooth the piping is. That means LESS horsepower. Hot air is less dense. So if put a filter inside the engine bay and let it breathe freely inside the engine bay it will suck in lots of HOT air. Thin, hot air equates to a over rich condition. Using a tune to help lean out the engine will make more horses from a HOT air intake.
Which means
FACT cold air is more dense than hot air. Cold, dense air means a leaner fuel condition which makes more horsepower since most manufacturers run their stock engine tunes over rich to help prevent "driver error" and keep things happy and detonation free.
JoeR is just stating fact in a black and white (or red and blue) form. These are SAE corrected horsepower numbers from a dyno. Measuring wheel horsepower and not "crank" horsepower. Most aftermarket air intakes that place the filter inside the engine bay are CRAP! Ever hear of IceMan or AEM? Their major money makers are COLD air intakes that place the filter outside the engine bay. I didn't just make my own intake for sh**s an giggles. I wanted a real world difference in the way my HHR performed. It works so far and hope to get my version on a dyno VS a stock intake.
Just because they're a vendor doesn't mean they're right. Remember, they're sales people first. But believe what you want to believe. Its your HHR. Me? I'd rather have PROVEN gains I can see and feel. Not gains I can hear about and get from heresay.
FACT hot air is less dense than cold air no matter how smooth the piping is. That means LESS horsepower. Hot air is less dense. So if put a filter inside the engine bay and let it breathe freely inside the engine bay it will suck in lots of HOT air. Thin, hot air equates to a over rich condition. Using a tune to help lean out the engine will make more horses from a HOT air intake.
Which means
FACT cold air is more dense than hot air. Cold, dense air means a leaner fuel condition which makes more horsepower since most manufacturers run their stock engine tunes over rich to help prevent "driver error" and keep things happy and detonation free.
JoeR is just stating fact in a black and white (or red and blue) form. These are SAE corrected horsepower numbers from a dyno. Measuring wheel horsepower and not "crank" horsepower. Most aftermarket air intakes that place the filter inside the engine bay are CRAP! Ever hear of IceMan or AEM? Their major money makers are COLD air intakes that place the filter outside the engine bay. I didn't just make my own intake for sh**s an giggles. I wanted a real world difference in the way my HHR performed. It works so far and hope to get my version on a dyno VS a stock intake.
Just because they're a vendor doesn't mean they're right. Remember, they're sales people first. But believe what you want to believe. Its your HHR. Me? I'd rather have PROVEN gains I can see and feel. Not gains I can hear about and get from heresay.
my nissan right now has a WAI and since installing it I've noticed a lag response in the low end compared to stock. I'm moving back to stock until I can get a true CAI installed. True CAIs are preferred by Altima owners in the forum I'm a member of (AEM being one of the favorite ones).
you will always have people from this forum back socal up (just look for SOCALHHRs stickers). I admit I liked mike's service until the cgs/airaid debate that caused some valuable members to leave the forums for good. He acted too much of a know-it-all and whenever he's questioned about his responses he will throw the old "I've test millions of cars, and I wrote about cars for different magazines, yada yada yada" comebacks. Thanks for finally posting the dyno sheets JoeR.
Favorite Socal moments:
1) "replace all 4 of your doorlock knobs with stubbys. make sure you cut them all the way to the bottom so only the top of the stubby chrome is showing". Wait, what if the battery goes dead while in the car, how will I open my doors?!?!?!
2) Available now...IMCO mufflers for $40+ (not including shipping!). Dont IMCO's cost around $20ish or so?
Favorite Socal moments:
1) "replace all 4 of your doorlock knobs with stubbys. make sure you cut them all the way to the bottom so only the top of the stubby chrome is showing". Wait, what if the battery goes dead while in the car, how will I open my doors?!?!?!
2) Available now...IMCO mufflers for $40+ (not including shipping!). Dont IMCO's cost around $20ish or so?
Regardless, my warning in my message remains the same....



I didn't intend it that way. I meant it as a joke.