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Automatic Rear Hatch???

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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 10:36 AM
  #11  
JerseyJames's Avatar
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From: State of Confusion, U.S.A.
Originally Posted by HHR_Bandit
I like that. Thank you!

I've thought that. But I was affraid it would get caught when closing in the door gasket and keep it from closing properly. Any issues with that?
Hmm ... maybe one solution to getting the strap "pinched" would be some velcro with stick-um on back. With right strap material, wouldn't need velcro on strap. Position velcro to keep strap out of way. Pull hatch with strap, grab hatch with one hand, strap onto velcro, close hatch. Just would have to remember to pull strap off velcro when hatch opens or you're back at square one ! : but if you're prepared with a ... "thingie" to hook on to the loop (you did put a loop on the free end???) to "detach rear portal covering closure assisting device to operating position" then you're golden. THAT being said ... run my trailer light harness out the hatch, no problem with it closing. Just
Old Nov 24, 2013 | 11:45 AM
  #12  
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From: San Bernardino, California
Originally Posted by HHR_Bandit
I like that. Thank you!

I've thought that. But I was affraid it would get caught when closing in the door gasket and keep it from closing properly. Any issues with that?
It wasn't long enough to get caught in the gasket.
Old Nov 24, 2013 | 12:21 PM
  #13  
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From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by JerseyJames
Hmm ... maybe one solution to getting the strap "pinched" would be some velcro with stick-um on back. With right strap material, wouldn't need velcro on strap. Position velcro to keep strap out of way. Pull hatch with strap, grab hatch with one hand, strap onto velcro, close hatch. Just would have to remember to pull strap off velcro when hatch opens or you're back at square one ! : but if you're prepared with a ... "thingie" to hook on to the loop (you did put a loop on the free end???) to "detach rear portal covering closure assisting device to operating position" then you're golden. THAT being said ... run my trailer light harness out the hatch, no problem with it closing. Just
Good idea.
Old Nov 24, 2013 | 12:22 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by db/sb
It wasn't long enough to get caught in the gasket.
Good to know. I just have to position it right.
Old Nov 24, 2013 | 03:43 PM
  #15  
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From: El Paso, TX
Originally Posted by HHR_Bandit
Interesting. I've been wanting to do upgrades. One question though. Does it make the car sit low "looking" in the rear? Or; do I have to install a Cobalt option in the front to even the rake out?
I just did the rear springs, which level out the ride height so the gap between the tire and fender opening is just about equal front to rear. Check my gallery for before and after pics.
Old Nov 24, 2013 | 04:10 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Dracos
I just did the rear springs, which level out the ride height so the gap between the tire and fender opening is just about equal front to rear. Check my gallery for before and after pics.
I see what you mean Dracos. It basically evens out the car. No rake what so ever. Question: did you buy the Cobalt springs new, or did you go bone yard diving? Also; is there a certain year/or model I should get?
Old Nov 24, 2013 | 05:14 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by HHR_Bandit
I see what you mean Dracos. It basically evens out the car. No rake what so ever. Question: did you buy the Cobalt springs new, or did you go bone yard diving? Also; is there a certain year/or model I should get?
There are two Cobalt SS models, and each have their own rear springs: SS/TC and SS/SC; they're different years, but that's the only difference you need to know with regard to these springs. The SS/SC springs give more drop, but if you search around you'll learn that they are softer than the stock HHR springs. The SS/TC springs I got (part #25821162) are firmer than the stock springs, I got them new on gmpartsdirect.com, currently $32.24 each. You'll need to adjust your headlights after the swap, they'll be aimed very high.

I got the TTR rear sway bar put on at the same time, it makes a world of difference in handling.
Old Nov 24, 2013 | 07:58 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Dracos
There are two Cobalt SS models, and each have their own rear springs: SS/TC and SS/SC; they're different years, but that's the only difference you need to know with regard to these springs. The SS/SC springs give more drop, but if you search around you'll learn that they are softer than the stock HHR springs. The SS/TC springs I got (part #25821162) are firmer than the stock springs, I got them new on gmpartsdirect.com, currently $32.24 each. You'll need to adjust your headlights after the swap, they'll be aimed very high.

I got the TTR rear sway bar put on at the same time, it makes a world of difference in handling.
Thanks for the tips. We do alot of vacationing in the NC mountains. This sounds like it will help with those roads as well.
Old Nov 24, 2013 | 08:18 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Dracos
I got the TTR rear sway bar put on at the same time, it makes a world of difference in handling.
Is this the swat bar you used?
http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...idproduct=5148
Old Nov 24, 2013 | 08:39 PM
  #20  
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From: Tacoma
I would pick the hardcore swaybar I have owned them both.....



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