Chevy HHR Network
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Chevy HHR Network (https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/)
-   Appearance/Modifications Discussions (https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/appearance-modifications-discussions-6/)
-   -   Automatic Rear Hatch??? (https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/appearance-modifications-discussions-6/automatic-rear-hatch-48632/)

JerseyJames 11-24-2013 10:36 AM
Originally Posted by HHR_Bandit (Post 726726)
I like that. Thank you!:thumb:

I've thought that. But I was affraid it would get caught when closing in the door gasket and keep it from closing properly. Any issues with that?
Hmm ... maybe one solution to getting the strap "pinched" would be some :idea: velcro with stick-um on back. With right strap material, wouldn't need velcro on strap. Position velcro to keep strap out of way. Pull hatch with strap, grab hatch with one hand, strap onto velcro, close hatch. Just would have to remember to pull strap off velcro when hatch opens or you're back at square one ! ::censored: but if you're prepared with a ... :topsecret:"thingie" to hook on to the loop (you did put a loop on the free end???:D) to "detach rear portal covering closure assisting device to operating position" then you're golden. THAT being said ... run my trailer light harness out the hatch, no problem with it closing. Just :my2cents:

db/sb 11-24-2013 11:45 AM
Originally Posted by HHR_Bandit (Post 726726)
I like that. Thank you!:thumb:

I've thought that. But I was affraid it would get caught when closing in the door gasket and keep it from closing properly. Any issues with that?
It wasn't long enough to get caught in the gasket.

HHR_Bandit 11-24-2013 12:21 PM
Originally Posted by JerseyJames (Post 726731)
Hmm ... maybe one solution to getting the strap "pinched" would be some :idea: velcro with stick-um on back. With right strap material, wouldn't need velcro on strap. Position velcro to keep strap out of way. Pull hatch with strap, grab hatch with one hand, strap onto velcro, close hatch. Just would have to remember to pull strap off velcro when hatch opens or you're back at square one ! ::censored: but if you're prepared with a ... :topsecret:"thingie" to hook on to the loop (you did put a loop on the free end???:D) to "detach rear portal covering closure assisting device to operating position" then you're golden. THAT being said ... run my trailer light harness out the hatch, no problem with it closing. Just :my2cents:
Good idea.:twothumbs:

HHR_Bandit 11-24-2013 12:22 PM
Originally Posted by db/sb (Post 726746)
It wasn't long enough to get caught in the gasket.
Good to know. I just have to position it right.

Dracos 11-24-2013 03:43 PM
Originally Posted by HHR_Bandit (Post 726729)
Interesting. I've been wanting to do upgrades. One question though. Does it make the car sit low "looking" in the rear? Or; do I have to install a Cobalt option in the front to even the rake out?
I just did the rear springs, which level out the ride height so the gap between the tire and fender opening is just about equal front to rear. Check my gallery for before and after pics.

HHR_Bandit 11-24-2013 04:10 PM
Originally Posted by Dracos (Post 726765)
I just did the rear springs, which level out the ride height so the gap between the tire and fender opening is just about equal front to rear. Check my gallery for before and after pics.
I see what you mean Dracos. It basically evens out the car. No rake what so ever. Question: did you buy the Cobalt springs new, or did you go bone yard diving? Also; is there a certain year/or model I should get?

Dracos 11-24-2013 05:14 PM
Originally Posted by HHR_Bandit (Post 726769)
I see what you mean Dracos. It basically evens out the car. No rake what so ever. Question: did you buy the Cobalt springs new, or did you go bone yard diving? Also; is there a certain year/or model I should get?
There are two Cobalt SS models, and each have their own rear springs: SS/TC and SS/SC; they're different years, but that's the only difference you need to know with regard to these springs. The SS/SC springs give more drop, but if you search around you'll learn that they are softer than the stock HHR springs. The SS/TC springs I got (part #25821162) are firmer than the stock springs, I got them new on gmpartsdirect.com, currently $32.24 each. You'll need to adjust your headlights after the swap, they'll be aimed very high.

I got the TTR rear sway bar put on at the same time, it makes a world of difference in handling.

HHR_Bandit 11-24-2013 07:58 PM
Originally Posted by Dracos (Post 726783)
There are two Cobalt SS models, and each have their own rear springs: SS/TC and SS/SC; they're different years, but that's the only difference you need to know with regard to these springs. The SS/SC springs give more drop, but if you search around you'll learn that they are softer than the stock HHR springs. The SS/TC springs I got (part #25821162) are firmer than the stock springs, I got them new on gmpartsdirect.com, currently $32.24 each. You'll need to adjust your headlights after the swap, they'll be aimed very high.

I got the TTR rear sway bar put on at the same time, it makes a world of difference in handling.
Thanks for the tips. We do alot of vacationing in the NC mountains. This sounds like it will help with those roads as well.

HHR_Bandit 11-24-2013 08:18 PM
Originally Posted by Dracos (Post 726783)
I got the TTR rear sway bar put on at the same time, it makes a world of difference in handling.
Is this the swat bar you used?
http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...idproduct=5148

SS fan 11-24-2013 08:39 PM
I would pick the hardcore swaybar I have owned them both.....:thumb:


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