Rust Bubbles On My Tailgate
Senior Member
Joined: 02-16-2009
Posts: 6,038
From: Frankenmuth/Flint, MI
WD40 is definitely not something you want to just put on once and leave for the winter... It's a good "in-between". My dad and I have both used it frequently on our vehicles, but oil by far is the best. You can use the WD40 if you don't have oil, or if you don't have the time since the oil usually takes a while to drip out. If you want to go all winter long, you'd probably need to WD40 it quite a bit. We usually do the oil once a year, and then WD40 once in a while as well.
Platinum Member
Joined: 05-09-2006
Posts: 6,805
From: "Upland" Mesa, Arizona
Unfortunately this rust is going to be an issue for HHRs in general. The way the doors are constructed will promote rust along the bottoms of the doors. If you look at any door on your car you will see that the outer skin of the door is wrapped around the bottom and up along the backside of the door. The lip of this folded sheet metal is not completely smoothed down and sealed. This will allow dirt and moisture to gather in the small gaps in the sheetmetal. Whos knows if the metal out of view is primed or painted at all. So this is where rust will start and grow. Where you live and how much moisture your car gets will play a factor in how big the problem is for you.
I was thinking of taking some clear silicone and running a thin bead along the tops of these seams along the bottoms of the doors at least and then smoothing it into the gaps to minimize the visibility of the silicone. The edges are razor sharp so a glove would be a good idea.
Remember these are production cars and not hand built exotics, so the design is what it is. If you want to keep your car for a very long time some prevention could go a long way here.
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I was thinking of taking some clear silicone and running a thin bead along the tops of these seams along the bottoms of the doors at least and then smoothing it into the gaps to minimize the visibility of the silicone. The edges are razor sharp so a glove would be a good idea.
Remember these are production cars and not hand built exotics, so the design is what it is. If you want to keep your car for a very long time some prevention could go a long way here.
.
I first questioned this, about 1-2 years ago, when one of our members indicated he had rust on the bottom of the doors and provided a picture displaying blocked drainage holes. I provided a friend with the info and was informed of the above. Although the problem was supposed to be corrected, I suspect those who are having that rust problem, have a poor assembly issue.
Senior Member
Joined: 08-23-2006
Posts: 1,720
From: So Cal
Snoopy, I based my comments on looking at my doors and seeing gaps along the top edge of the "sealed" seams. I figured if I can get a finger nail under the lip, dirt and moisture can get in there too. If they took the time to make it perfect at the factory, the cars would cost more.
I was thinking it was some hi-tech adhesive holding it together since there is no evidence of welding.
I was thinking it was some hi-tech adhesive holding it together since there is no evidence of welding.
Senior Member
Joined: 03-01-2009
Posts: 263
From: La Vernia, Texas
This sounds like a geographical problem . Most of the post are from areas that are prone to snow. I live in south Texas, had my HHR over a year with no problems. May be its something they are using on the roads during the winter.
Senior Member
Joined: 02-16-2009
Posts: 6,038
From: Frankenmuth/Flint, MI
A new car should not rust in 1 or 2 years....
Platinum Member
Joined: 05-09-2006
Posts: 6,805
From: "Upland" Mesa, Arizona
