2 Ohm vs. 4 Ohm
Senior Member
Joined: 01-27-2006
Posts: 320
From: Dublin, California
The basic rule is to "match" the speaker with the amplifier, to achieve maximum performance. Technically, the quality of the sound is based on the frequency response of the speaker + cabinet + amplifier.
As far as the OHMs mumbojumbo, if you get a sub that is 2 ohms, you will want to drive it with an amplifier that is rated at running 2 ohms, to achieve maximum power transfer. But remember, these are rules for those extreme audiophile guys.
You can run a 4 ohm sub from say a 2 ohm amp, and still achieve the sound quality you are looking for. Because the 4 ohm is a higher load, it will theoretically draw less current, and thus you consume approximately half the power. But be careful in going the opposite way, meaning running a 2 ohm load from an amp that is only capable of running at 4 ohms, because, you will end up with a dead amp after a while.
Honestly, most people will not be able to hear the difference from the naked ear. Remember, the Subwoofer speaker general works in the very low frequency range say between 40hz-150hz. Perfect hearing is considered 20hz-20khz. The Subs are really meant to "feel" at these frequencies, so IMO, find a shop that is willing to allow you to "test-drive" different setups.
Everyone, as well as the difference genre of music, has different "flavors" of BASS response, which will ultimately determine the type of Subs you should get.
As far as the OHMs mumbojumbo, if you get a sub that is 2 ohms, you will want to drive it with an amplifier that is rated at running 2 ohms, to achieve maximum power transfer. But remember, these are rules for those extreme audiophile guys.
You can run a 4 ohm sub from say a 2 ohm amp, and still achieve the sound quality you are looking for. Because the 4 ohm is a higher load, it will theoretically draw less current, and thus you consume approximately half the power. But be careful in going the opposite way, meaning running a 2 ohm load from an amp that is only capable of running at 4 ohms, because, you will end up with a dead amp after a while.
Honestly, most people will not be able to hear the difference from the naked ear. Remember, the Subwoofer speaker general works in the very low frequency range say between 40hz-150hz. Perfect hearing is considered 20hz-20khz. The Subs are really meant to "feel" at these frequencies, so IMO, find a shop that is willing to allow you to "test-drive" different setups.
Everyone, as well as the difference genre of music, has different "flavors" of BASS response, which will ultimately determine the type of Subs you should get.
Senior Member
Joined: 01-06-2006
Posts: 224
From: Long Island, NY
Originally Posted by erf2u
The basic rule is to "match" the speaker with the amplifier, to achieve maximum performance. Technically, the quality of the sound is based on the frequency response of the speaker + cabinet + amplifier.
As far as the OHMs mumbojumbo, if you get a sub that is 2 ohms, you will want to drive it with an amplifier that is rated at running 2 ohms, to achieve maximum power transfer. But remember, these are rules for those extreme audiophile guys.
You can run a 4 ohm sub from say a 2 ohm amp, and still achieve the sound quality you are looking for. Because the 4 ohm is a higher load, it will theoretically draw less current, and thus you consume approximately half the power. But be careful in going the opposite way, meaning running a 2 ohm load from an amp that is only capable of running at 4 ohms, because, you will end up with a dead amp after a while.
Honestly, most people will not be able to hear the difference from the naked ear. Remember, the Subwoofer speaker general works in the very low frequency range say between 40hz-150hz. Perfect hearing is considered 20hz-20khz. The Subs are really meant to "feel" at these frequencies, so IMO, find a shop that is willing to allow you to "test-drive" different setups.
Everyone, as well as the difference genre of music, has different "flavors" of BASS response, which will ultimately determine the type of Subs you should get.
As far as the OHMs mumbojumbo, if you get a sub that is 2 ohms, you will want to drive it with an amplifier that is rated at running 2 ohms, to achieve maximum power transfer. But remember, these are rules for those extreme audiophile guys.
You can run a 4 ohm sub from say a 2 ohm amp, and still achieve the sound quality you are looking for. Because the 4 ohm is a higher load, it will theoretically draw less current, and thus you consume approximately half the power. But be careful in going the opposite way, meaning running a 2 ohm load from an amp that is only capable of running at 4 ohms, because, you will end up with a dead amp after a while.
Honestly, most people will not be able to hear the difference from the naked ear. Remember, the Subwoofer speaker general works in the very low frequency range say between 40hz-150hz. Perfect hearing is considered 20hz-20khz. The Subs are really meant to "feel" at these frequencies, so IMO, find a shop that is willing to allow you to "test-drive" different setups.
Everyone, as well as the difference genre of music, has different "flavors" of BASS response, which will ultimately determine the type of Subs you should get.
If setup correctly, you can run an amp under it's rec'd impedance for as long as the amp would normally last. Back EMF will cause that 2 ohms to shoot all over the place, and the amp will very very rarely see a 2 ohm load.
