|
HHR Noise & Vibration Reduction
3 Attachment(s)
HHR Noise & Vibration Reduction I have been Installing a product like "Dynamat" sold as - Audio Barrier, but actually comes in a Box that looks the Same as the Advertised "Sound Barrier" but the box says ASC (Accoustic Sound Control) with a website listed as- www.AmericanSoundConnection.com. If you do a google search for Audio Barrier, you'll find 2 places selling it, I bought from half priced audio. When it arrived and had the ASC of the box I called them on it, and they swear it's the Audio Barrier. (Box does look the Same except for the name on it, so who knows.) I'll get a pic of the acxtuall box posted later on. Comparing the box design I think they just started using the company name, so if you decide to order some up, don't be surprized. Foil backed butyl based. Bought here>http://www.halfpricecaraudio.com/Audio-Barrier.htm Supposed to be pretty good and for a better price than actual "Dynamat". I bought $500.00 worth, it would have cost nearly Double that buying the big name brand everyone has heard of. As they describe it> Audio Barrier is a high quality manufacturer of car sound damping material that is a cost effective way of upgrading to increase the sound quality of your stereo system while keeping the road noises out at the same time. The sounding damping material is designed to create a barrier between unwanted noises and vibrations from the outside. Audio Barriers sound damping material can b used on floors, doors, roofs, hoods, and trunks. Another website that carries it >http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...0046/set_num/2 And they have this on their site> Attachment 28437 Attachment 28438 If you look at the graph above you will see we only compare our material to other brands that use butyl rubber as a base. As you can see we provide the thickest material, most square feet & the lowest price compared to top brands. Brands that use asphalt like FatMat, Sound Destroyer, & Rattle Trap sacrifice quality to cut costs. These brands are not even in the same league as major brands, so we dont even include them in our comparison. Thickness matters just like with wire. With Wire you are paying for the copper inside and with Sound Damping you are paying for the thickness of the rubber. The more material the better the damping factor. You would have to apply up to 3 layers of some of our competitors material to equal one layer of ours. So why does it matter what type of material your sound damping mat is made from? Sound damping material is broken down into two materials. Butyl Rubber and Asphalt based mixes. If you look closely most of the cheaper brands use asphalt based material which in the long term will not hold together as well as rubber butyl and it also has a foul smell that will never leave your vehicle. On the other hand rubber butyl leaves no trace of odor and has better elastic properties to extend durability. Besides who wants their vehicle to smell like a road construction project? I bought 2 Bulk Kits @ 72 sq. ft. each kit. 18 sheets 18"X32" in each kit. Attachment 28439 I also bought another Kit, smaller "Trunk Kit" that has 5 sheets @ 20 sq. ft.. I am upgrading my stock audio system, so sound dampening is a major step in my upgrade. I have gutted my interior on my HHR Panel to do this work, to get at everything that needs to be covered. I will be doing the Doors once the main interior is put back together. It is alot of work, but I feel it will be worth it in the end. My Panel will be much quieter inside, sound and feel more like an expensive car that has much better sound proffing from the factory. You gotta tear everything out to get at the areas that need covering. 25%-50% Coverage is pretty good if you want to save some bucks. I am doing 85%-95% Coverage. Some go to extremes and do 100% with TWO layers and put other products over that even. They are in the $1,000.00-$1,500.00 and more range. I am doing what I felt I could afford and what would do a decent job for what I am after sound wise. The panels before and after sound ALOT different. Tap the the HHR's Roof and it sound tinny and matallic with vibration. Once installed it has a Solid Thump sound now. You can search and read and decide for yourself if this is a Project for you or not, I did my research, and decided it was worth the investment. And the time it takes. I'll try and load the pics in somewhat of order here, but they may out of order as I worked on it and took pics as I went along. I gutted the interior and started in the rear end doing the quarter panels, then the spare tire well and moved forward. The main body is about 90% Done now, still some fill ins here and there to do yet. |
15 Attachment(s)
|
I'm glad to see it. You have done great work. :thumb::thumb::thumb:
Hopefully, now your music is doing more happy you and your passengers. I'm surprised the cost of these products in the United States. I visited the first got Russian site (Chelyabinsk City), the cost of the material in the same amount was $ 109 at a thickness of 1.6 mm. , $ 160 at a thickness of 3.0 mm. There are better materials - composites, based on polyurethane and polyethylene foam. But even the most expensive - $ 17 per sheet. Considering what you paid less than the usual cost - in the U.S. is really strong entrepreneurial spirit. Maybe you and I will organize a business? We sell this **** in the U.S.? :lol: Your sphere - Advertising and marketing, my sphere - packing and shipping the goods to the United States. What do you think? |
Originally Posted by American & Proud
(Post 578083)
A few pics of my work in progress.
Wow!!! |
How many subs are you planning to install? The overall instalation looks pro :thumb:
|
Originally Posted by geg
(Post 578087)
I'm glad to see it. You have done great work. :thumb::thumb::thumb:
Hopefully, now your music is doing more happy you and your passengers. I'm surprised the cost of these products in the United States. I visited the first got Russian site (Chelyabinsk City), the cost of the material in the same amount was $ 109 at a thickness of 1.6 mm. , $ 160 at a thickness of 3.0 mm. There are better materials - composites, based on polyurethane and polyethylene foam. But even the most expensive - $ 17 per sheet. Considering what you paid less than the usual cost - in the U.S. is really strong entrepreneurial spirit. Maybe you and I will organize a business? We sell this **** in the U.S.? :lol: Your sphere - Advertising and marketing, my sphere - packing and shipping the goods to the United States. What do you think? This is it for me. I just want my own HHR to be the best I can make it.:thumb: :skull: |
Originally Posted by sincfiles
(Post 578132)
:bow:
Wow!!! :skull: |
Originally Posted by Zagohhr
(Post 578216)
How many subs are you planning to install? The overall instalation looks pro :thumb:
I have Pioneer Stage 3 stuff, Pioneer AVH P4200 DVD 7" touch screen head unit Pioneer GM-D9500F Class-FD 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier Pioneer GM-D8500M Class-D Mono Amplifier with 1200 Watts Max. Power Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75-Inch D-Series 260-Watt Speaker Package Pioneer TS-D1602R 6.5 Inch Two-Way Speakers with 260 Watts Max Power Pioneer TS-W3002D4 12 In. Champion Series PRO Subwoofer with 3500 Watts I will Not be using the 8" subwoofer, or the factory oem amp. 7" and 9" TVIEW Headrest Monitors Only using the one 12" subwoofer. I have a Temp. bandpass sub box for it, I plan on building a Show type amp rack and custom sub box built into the tire well area. I will get everything hooked up and working then start on the Custom work in the Fall, in the 90's and humid so it's a biotch working in a Black Panel in full Sun in the driveway. I am running an industrial fan on me as I work, it Helps. Lights at night with the fan help alot in getting more done. I am redoing my Headliner in Black Suede while it is out. And not sure yet but I do have a Visio 32" LCD TV I was trying to figure out how to make it a flip down(or up) for when the rear hatch is open. Party Panel? :lol: I Doubt I will go that far, it is my Garage TV afterall, but I have eyed it. ;) :skull: |
I´m with you. Less is better, and total noise reduction is always better (Personally I hate when the license plate vibrate). I´ll wait pictures when you finish your installation :twothumbs:
|
Originally Posted by Zagohhr
(Post 578240)
I´m with you. Less is better, and total noise reduction is always better (Personally I hate when the license plate vibrate). I´ll wait pictures when you finish your installation :twothumbs:
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:03 AM. |
© 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands