It's not going to hurt anything by using it and it looks nice for sure. I like that plate.

Our cars do very well on battery upkeep from the alternator. They have computer controlled outputs.

I am running 1200 watts and have no need for the big 3 nor a cap. No dimming nor any signs of loss of output nor distortion onset. Not sure if I have mentioned what I am running for power but here goes. I have 4 Zapco amps with rms outputs of 50x2 for the tweets, 100x2 for the mr's, 200x2 for the mb's and 500x1 for the sub. Like yours (but perhaps not as much) these are underrated amps. The mb amp birthsheet stated 822w with a rated 780w.

I am using a factory AC Delco battery. Not sure if it is the origional one as I am not the origional owner but I have had this car for alomst 2 years now so it is atleast that old. It did not look brand new and the dealer only had the car for 2 days before I bought it lol.

Search the other site for more current info on caps.

 

Um.. ok. So my joke was poorly received. Sorry. Enjoy your rockin' loud stereo.

 

Those are some bajeezus huge amps. If the heater blower craps out you can probably stay warm by crankin' up the tunes! Just a thought.. will the stock glass survive? Seriously. Had a buddy with a Celica that had to install bulletproof glass. That looks like a LOT of power in a relatively small space.

 

Actually the amounts I listed, other then the birthsheet, are at the ohm load each amp is playing at. So a true total of 1200w possible with my current setup. If I loaded them down I can pull (spec listed amounts) 200, 350, 780 for the front stage. I am running the sub amp at 2ohms so yes the 500 there is the spec'd amount. So 1830w if I wanted to load them down lol.

Like I said no issues with dimming or anything with the factory electrical and 1200 watts of system power. And I do crank it a lot. During my last GTG from my local DIYMA group I demo'd it the whole time I was there. Sitting at idle for almost 4 hours straight and cranking the system to show off my 15" sub and 8" midbasses and the car never flinched.

 

Now THAT's an acid test! Spec or actual, that's a whole ton of wattage in a car. Usually I would expect to hear all kinds of upgrades, very cool that the car just accepts it as is. Now you have me wondering if I should upgrade... (I don't usually bother). HMMMM

 

saw your last post looks good, ill be glad to get the rest of mine done, system and sound dampening. have to put mine on hold for a short just got a call to go to Chicago for a job looks like after Christmas before I can finish. Down to tying in at the amp. Board is done all cables for the 3sixty are run remote mounted just dont have time to do the tie in. Ill be watching your progress keep up the fine work look forward to seeing and hearing it some day.

 

As mentioned in the previous post . I searched the recycle bin and salvaged a piece of 1/4 inch thick 6061 Aluminum that was 8 inches wide and 24 inches long . We cut stock aluminum with Amana bi-metal blades . I cut this piece to length on a Dewalt 12 inch compound slide saw.Then I ripped the piece down to 7 inches on a Jet commercial table saw . We use a wax based stick lube made by Boeing to lubricate the saw blades when cutting aluminum .
Below is the beginning of the power distribution plate .
The single fastener shown is a 8-32 x 3/4" s/s Phillip Flat Head screw . I will drill and tap the material to attach the blocks to the plate . To attach the plate to the rack ,I will use a 12-14 x 3/4" S/S Self tapping Tek . These are the fasteners in the plastic bag .
Greg

 

You never stop amazing me with this install that is going to be sweet. Keep up the great work I will be watching. Can't wait to see it in person, might let you redo mine when you finish if you keep this up

 

Skip the Stinger mark up and get it straight from the source.

http://www.odysseybattery.com/

 

I love Odyssey batteries. I have a Stinger one, the 1700 thats about 12 years or so old. Still holding a charge just fine and load testing fine. Stout batteries.