My rear control arm bolt, which is also the subframe bolt, would unscrew but not come out because it was seized in the steel bushing that goes through the rubber. Instead of coming out it was pushing that corner of the subframe down.

I didn't realize the exact situation until I read this thread.

I wanted to try to save the bolt because I can't find a replacement until Monday and I have to drive to work. Everywhere is 20 miles from home.

I whittled most of the rubber out with a hot kitchen knife then sliced the aluminum control arm around where the rubber was with a torch. At this point it was easy to pry the cut wide open while it was still hot.

Now all that was left was the bare steel bushing and the bolt seized within. I was able to apply heat to the bushing and 'pop' the subframe sprung back up when the bolt un-seized.

This seemed to work well. I took care to use scrap sheet metal to shield other parts from heat and flame. I used an oxy/acet torch and unlike steel the aluminum maintained shape until hot enough then slumped out all at once.

 

So you used antiseize on the threads, to avoid this in future.

 

I did? I'm not reassembling until tomorrow... are you from the future?

 

I might be!

 

Well, cleaning up fasteners this morning it appears the bolt has seen better days. It's thinning around the center and should probably be replaced. Oldblue, do you know if there is a parts store replacement for this little stinker that I could get on a Sunday?

 

Possibly a match up at your local parts palace or Fastnal.

 

GM P/N 11589009 BOLT,DRIVETRAIN & FRT SUSP FRM(M14X2X131)(08.900). BOLT,FRT C/MBR(M14X2X131)(08.900).

I think the 8.9 is a typo, it probably should be 10.9

Not very likely to find one local in stock. Google the part number, see what you find.

I've just added it to the common parts thread.

 

At RockAuto

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gen...9,bolt,1000374


And on Amazon

Genuine GM 11589009 Drivetrain and Suspension Frame Bolt, Front
Crate engine depot

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Crad...09-P18814.aspx


Reinstall the used ones , then switch them out when the two new ones show up!

 

Thanks, those chassis bolt pictures look similar but on mine the threads extend half the length of the bolt. It could be that it doesn't matter or the pic is of a different but similar part.

A couple desperate times this weekend...

1. I used a thread file to clean up that raunchy chassis bolt and re-used it for now (with antiseize). I think it would actually be fine but I'll be happier when I get a new one.

2. I 'renewed' the 30 degree taper (60 degree in lug nut speak) on 5 buggered lug nuts. I think I'm going to buy new ones soon though. Probably a set like this for my winter steel wheels and a set of acorn style for my aluminum wheels.

 

Yes, this is the newer part number. The old part is this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VAUXHALL-SC...-/152349822719






One of the pics shows that it is indeed grade 10.9