Did the driver side yesterday, everything went so well, I decided to do the other side today...Well guess what, ran into the same prob as Kookie, gonna get a sawzall tomorrow, and go at it again.

Bill

 

Please read as of 4-18 this bolt is on national back order so give this a try 1st. I used vicegrips to hold the bushing sleeve(you may have to cut or burn some rubber out of the way) and a big ratchet and cheater pipe (bc my impact wouldn't budge it) and lots of muscle I was able to do both sides without damaging or cutting or burning anything. Took some time but I'm glad it's over. Best of luck to anyone who has to do this terrible job.

 

Rust, dirt, corrosion and more rust makes for a long weekend. This bolt is weird looking it has tapered threads and a notch cut out of the end.

 

Clean those threads up, and use a quality antiseize

 

You can order this part 11589009. Same basic specs as 11518871. You can find information that 11589009 replaced 11518871.

Also looks like GM reinstated the first part # and it can be ordered again.

 

Didn’t we just do this in another thread?

 

Yes, we did. 11518871 IS the old part number. Same part.

 

I thought I had just posted a source.

 

How to replace a nut - metric pressing - gm (11561074) The bolt does not get out 11518871. How to unscrew it with the least loss of time? I can not unscrew. He scrolls.

 

Not sure what you are asking. If you are asking about how to replace the captive nut that the bolt screws into, I am guessing that you will likely have to drop the cradle.

If you are asking about how to remove the bolt as it just SPINS (not scrolls), that is what this thread is all about. Use Vice grips on the tube that the bolt goes thru to keep it from spinning while using a socket on the bolt, or as Kookie did, use a saws-all to cut it all out.