So that "inside the frame" part of the stud is 10mm? I could not actually see it laying on my back, so I ASSuMEd that it was the same size as the nut (15mm) which would not fit into the hole. I guess the way to go about removal is to get the nut loosened up then unscrew the stud enough to get the nut and bracket up over the tip of the stud??? Or, do you hold the nut and power the stud out???

Jay said: "Take a look at the stock bushings, you would not know it is rubber, hard as bakalite, the front sway bar rotates in the bushings, I had the black grafite with zirc fittings."

GM part number is 20902784, and does have a slit in it. I got them on e-bay for $7.75 free shipping. They DO NOT feel like solid plastic, they do feel quite rubbery.

 

Update. I did get the bolt out by holding the nut with a wrench and unscrewing the bolt from the bottom. I do not recommend this project for people without access to a lift, out of the 2 hours working 90 minutes was trying to get the nuts started back on! And a side note, I found that my "GM Certified Used Car" had even more severe frontal damage than was previously thought; There was grit and sand between the rubber and the frame!

 

And now a further update! I now have real clunks that I never had before, they can be felt thru the floorboard. Plan is to jack it up again this weekend to check that I did tighten everything back up correctly, because now it sounds like the bushings are not there at all. The ones I replaced were getting hard and cracked a tiny bit, but not clunking! There is a chance that I did not tighten the end links up correctly, I hope that's it.

 

For what it's worth. Check your rear control arm bushings. I just replaced mine with 91k on the car. Mine were so bad that the control arm was rattling against the frame. This could be the source of your new clunking.

 

Bingo! That was one of the new noises along with not re-installing the link correctly.

Has any body here done a replacement of the bushing in their garage, I need hints on getting the old bushing out and new in. I already have removed the control arm.

 

The old bushings need to be pressed out, and the new ones pressed in. I just replaced the whole control arm. They come complete with new bushings and ball joint. I figured that with 92k on the odometer, I might as well take care of everything. The control arms for my 2LT with the FE3 suspension ran just shy of 3 bills. I got mine from rockauto.com. They arrived in about 5 days and installed them in about 2 hours. Not that hard to do.

 

Yeah, I got a new bushing at NAPA for $13 then took the arm out, and then discovered that the local tool loaner place doesm't have the right tool! So, I put the old (208,300 miles) arm back in and ordered from Rockauto $68.99 + $10 shipping. At least I know what I'll be doing Saturday. I can take my time finding the tool to replace the left side at my leisure.

 

just spend the last hour, or so, with my 2006 HHR in the garage getting familure with what size wrenches that i'll need to get the ENERGY SUSPENSIONS sway bar bushings in to replace the blown out stockers.....already did the moog greasable end links so i know that they'll be easy to disconnect(thanks to a wide wrench flat.....find out that a DEEP 10mm socket(inserted through the hole in the chassis) will easily engage the bolts head that holds down the metal strap at the back and a 15mm open end grabs a hold of the nut. i almost fully backed off the nut which allowed the bolt to free itself up. this deal allows the nut to fully clear ofthe underside of the body(which seems to pose a big, fat problem in terms of removal of the strap. either way, after blasting a bit of penetrating oil on the bolt/nut, tightened things up in anticipation of finally getting around to replacing the bushings. also, while i was underneath, used a pry bar to "coax" the sway bar ever so slightly to the right so that it would not contact the control arm. now, both sides of the arm clear both control arms evenly. at full wheel droop, i have about a thumbs width between the control srm(s) ant the sway bar...................going to get some pizza.....

 

also, noticed on the bar that there are "positioner" rings that keep the bar "centered".....don't know how they're affixed to the bar.

 

On mine they were forged into the rod.