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Lowering car

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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 07:51 PM
  #1  
Lee3333's Avatar
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Joined: 12-18-2005
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From: Middle Village, NY
Lowering car

Is this a back yard mechanic job? What tools are involved? Spring compressor, or do they come out easy? I must confess I have not looked under the car with this in mind yet (it is dark and cold outside now).
I know the alignment needs to be adjusted-are the shims easy to install?
Old Feb 24, 2006 | 09:05 PM
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For anyone with moderate mechanical experience, it is an easy job, especially the rear.

For the front you will need a spring compressor.

On the rear, simply remove the lower shock bolts and let the axel down and the springs will come out easy.

After driving to let it "settle in", have the alignment checked. In the front you possibly will need an offset bolt in the upper strut-to-hub mounting to correct the camber. The rear won't need anything if it was right to start with, since alignment won't change with the rear geometry design.
Old Feb 24, 2006 | 09:44 PM
  #3  
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The rear does change quite a bit actually. Mine had 1/2-inch of negative camber in the rear - that is substantial. Just go in for a 4-wheel alignment and when they put the heads on they will tell you if the rear is out or not. Gold-Line recommends that the rear shim kits be installed with their springs.

Joe - did you do yours in the driveway? Were you able to get enough height with a standard jack to actually lower the rear trailing arms down? I have only done drops on a lift, and wasn't sure if a jack would provide enough height for the operation. I suppose you were able to get the struts out ok as well? Let me know...
Old Feb 24, 2006 | 10:12 PM
  #4  
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Mike,

There was absolutely NO CHANGE in the rear of mine. The geometry of the rear will not change during travel or from lowering. It is a straight trailing arm design connected by a torque tube. There is zero "camber curve" in the rear. My front only added 1/2 deg. negative, but still within spec. No toe change. Since I tend to corner hard, I've always gone on the negative side of the specs. That will keep tire wear even.

The rear spec is .8 (+/- .75) neg. If your had .5 deg. neg. it was fine. The shim kit normally should not be needed. Maybe Gold-Line likes to sell shim kits?

If your rear was out of spec and needed shims, it was out before lowering it.

Yep, did it in the driveway with a floor jack and stands. Plenty of room.
Old Feb 24, 2006 | 11:06 PM
  #5  
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I will be lowering mine either Saturday afternoon or early Sunday. I'll take pix and do a write-up afterwards...

Ng
Old Feb 25, 2006 | 07:12 AM
  #6  
JoeR's Avatar
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Ng,

Yep, pics would be helpful for those considering doing it themselves.

I apologize for not documenting my job w/ pics. I guess I was in too much of a rush to see the final results to take the time to shoot some pics.
Old Feb 25, 2006 | 10:17 AM
  #7  
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From: Raleigh, NC
Yeah, pics would be helpful. There is a guy a couple of houses up from me that dropped his Mustang in his garage, so armed with instructions and pictures maybe I can pay him to help me out when I get my HHR.
Old Feb 25, 2006 | 02:03 PM
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1 BAD HHR's Avatar
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From: Gambrills, MD
It's definitely easier with two people. I lowered mine, with a little help (mainly on the front end).

Mike, A regular floor jack works just fine for this. I had no problems at all using my craftsman 2 1/4 ton jack. I also ended up with no change in the rear (don't need the shims), and only .5 change in the front. My alignment guy said all was fine.
Old Feb 25, 2006 | 03:38 PM
  #9  
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From: Miami, Florida
Originally Posted by 1 BAD HHR
It's definitely easier with two people. I lowered mine, with a little help (mainly on the front end).

Mike, A regular floor jack works just fine for this. I had no problems at all using my craftsman 2 1/4 ton jack. I also ended up with no change in the rear (don't need the shims), and only .5 change in the front. My alignment guy said all was fine.
Did you use the Goldline?
Old Feb 25, 2006 | 08:47 PM
  #10  
1 BAD HHR's Avatar
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From: Gambrills, MD
Originally Posted by 06hhrjr
Did you use the Goldline?
The goldline's are the only way to go. Eibach is marketing the Cobalt's springs for the HHR. Besides, the Goldline springs are up to $100 cheaper.



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