Lowering car
Lowering car
Is this a back yard mechanic job? What tools are involved? Spring compressor, or do they come out easy? I must confess I have not looked under the car with this in mind yet (it is dark and cold outside now).
I know the alignment needs to be adjusted-are the shims easy to install?
I know the alignment needs to be adjusted-are the shims easy to install?
For anyone with moderate mechanical experience, it is an easy job, especially the rear.
For the front you will need a spring compressor.
On the rear, simply remove the lower shock bolts and let the axel down and the springs will come out easy.
After driving to let it "settle in", have the alignment checked. In the front you possibly will need an offset bolt in the upper strut-to-hub mounting to correct the camber. The rear won't need anything if it was right to start with, since alignment won't change with the rear geometry design.
For the front you will need a spring compressor.
On the rear, simply remove the lower shock bolts and let the axel down and the springs will come out easy.
After driving to let it "settle in", have the alignment checked. In the front you possibly will need an offset bolt in the upper strut-to-hub mounting to correct the camber. The rear won't need anything if it was right to start with, since alignment won't change with the rear geometry design.
The rear does change quite a bit actually. Mine had 1/2-inch of negative camber in the rear - that is substantial. Just go in for a 4-wheel alignment and when they put the heads on they will tell you if the rear is out or not. Gold-Line recommends that the rear shim kits be installed with their springs.
Joe - did you do yours in the driveway? Were you able to get enough height with a standard jack to actually lower the rear trailing arms down? I have only done drops on a lift, and wasn't sure if a jack would provide enough height for the operation. I suppose you were able to get the struts out ok as well? Let me know...
Joe - did you do yours in the driveway? Were you able to get enough height with a standard jack to actually lower the rear trailing arms down? I have only done drops on a lift, and wasn't sure if a jack would provide enough height for the operation. I suppose you were able to get the struts out ok as well? Let me know...
Mike,
There was absolutely NO CHANGE in the rear of mine. The geometry of the rear will not change during travel or from lowering. It is a straight trailing arm design connected by a torque tube. There is zero "camber curve" in the rear. My front only added 1/2 deg. negative, but still within spec. No toe change. Since I tend to corner hard, I've always gone on the negative side of the specs. That will keep tire wear even.
The rear spec is .8 (+/- .75) neg. If your had .5 deg. neg. it was fine. The shim kit normally should not be needed. Maybe Gold-Line likes to sell shim kits?
If your rear was out of spec and needed shims, it was out before lowering it.
Yep, did it in the driveway with a floor jack and stands. Plenty of room.
There was absolutely NO CHANGE in the rear of mine. The geometry of the rear will not change during travel or from lowering. It is a straight trailing arm design connected by a torque tube. There is zero "camber curve" in the rear. My front only added 1/2 deg. negative, but still within spec. No toe change. Since I tend to corner hard, I've always gone on the negative side of the specs. That will keep tire wear even.
The rear spec is .8 (+/- .75) neg. If your had .5 deg. neg. it was fine. The shim kit normally should not be needed. Maybe Gold-Line likes to sell shim kits?
If your rear was out of spec and needed shims, it was out before lowering it.
Yep, did it in the driveway with a floor jack and stands. Plenty of room.
Ng,
Yep, pics would be helpful for those considering doing it themselves.
I apologize for not documenting my job w/ pics. I guess I was in too much of a rush to see the final results to take the time to shoot some pics.
Yep, pics would be helpful for those considering doing it themselves.
I apologize for not documenting my job w/ pics. I guess I was in too much of a rush to see the final results to take the time to shoot some pics.
Yeah, pics would be helpful. There is a guy a couple of houses up from me that dropped his Mustang in his garage, so armed with instructions and pictures maybe I can pay him to help me out when I get my HHR.
It's definitely easier with two people. I lowered mine, with a little help (mainly on the front end).
Mike, A regular floor jack works just fine for this. I had no problems at all using my craftsman 2 1/4 ton jack. I also ended up with no change in the rear (don't need the shims), and only .5 change in the front. My alignment guy said all was fine.
Mike, A regular floor jack works just fine for this. I had no problems at all using my craftsman 2 1/4 ton jack. I also ended up with no change in the rear (don't need the shims), and only .5 change in the front. My alignment guy said all was fine.
Originally Posted by 1 BAD HHR
It's definitely easier with two people. I lowered mine, with a little help (mainly on the front end).
Mike, A regular floor jack works just fine for this. I had no problems at all using my craftsman 2 1/4 ton jack. I also ended up with no change in the rear (don't need the shims), and only .5 change in the front. My alignment guy said all was fine.
Mike, A regular floor jack works just fine for this. I had no problems at all using my craftsman 2 1/4 ton jack. I also ended up with no change in the rear (don't need the shims), and only .5 change in the front. My alignment guy said all was fine.


