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lowering springs

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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 09:50 AM
  #31  
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Coilovers will put you in the weeds, Joe has some and chevy13 ask them about them.
Old Jun 7, 2012 | 11:11 AM
  #32  
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I can tell you Eibach Sportlines will give you about a finger/ finger and a half clearance all the ay around...now thats an SS with Stock tires...GL springs will drop the front about a quarter inch more but back is the same
Old Jun 7, 2012 | 11:56 AM
  #33  
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The springs that I have in the front are 1.75 that wat I'm looking for
Old Jun 7, 2012 | 12:13 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by capp002
The springs that I have in the front are 1.75 that wat I'm looking for
You should get about that from the Canuck Cobalt SS springs.
Old Jun 7, 2012 | 12:20 PM
  #35  
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I hope so
Old Jul 15, 2012 | 08:22 PM
  #36  
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Gonna bump this thread as I am really leaning towards the canucks for my '11 lt. Are there any other goodies that I might need for the install or is this a simple plug and play?
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 07:58 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by nrvous1
Gonna bump this thread as I am really leaning towards the canucks for my '11 lt. Are there any other goodies that I might need for the install or is this a simple plug and play?
If you say your springs are bad, I'd look at replacing your struts and shocks as well. Swapping out complete struts up front is easier and faster than trying to rebuild when you pull the old ones. Then again some people decide to use old "top hats" and "thrust" bearings on their new struts. I'd just pefer not to.


Yes, they are all "plug n play" and there are tons of "how-to's" with simple steps on how to do it. Know what you are getting into and be prepared to spend at least one complete day (if you're a novice) to complete an entire swap. Don't FORGET ABOUT AND ALIGNMENT!!!
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 08:16 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by kwe45919
If you say your springs are bad, I'd look at replacing your struts and shocks as well. Swapping out complete struts up front is easier and faster than trying to rebuild when you pull the old ones. Then again some people decide to use old "top hats" and "thrust" bearings on their new struts. I'd just pefer not to.


Yes, they are all "plug n play" and there are tons of "how-to's" with simple steps on how to do it. Know what you are getting into and be prepared to spend at least one complete day (if you're a novice) to complete an entire swap. Don't FORGET ABOUT AND ALIGNMENT!!!
I don't think he said his springs are bad(this is a thread about lowering springs) Plus,he said his car was a 2011. Doubt it needs struts and shocks.
I think he just wants to change springs to lower it and get a better stance.
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 08:20 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by kwe45919
If you say your springs are bad, I'd look at replacing your struts and shocks as well. Swapping out complete struts up front is easier and faster than trying to rebuild when you pull the old ones. Then again some people decide to use old "top hats" and "thrust" bearings on their new struts. I'd just pefer not to.


Yes, they are all "plug n play" and there are tons of "how-to's" with simple steps on how to do it. Know what you are getting into and be prepared to spend at least one complete day (if you're a novice) to complete an entire swap. Don't FORGET ABOUT AND ALIGNMENT!!!
Mine didn't need an alignment after the drop...went to get one, they stuck it on the rack, everything spec'd out and I gave them the $60 for nothing
Old Jul 16, 2012 | 09:54 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by firemangeorge
I don't think he said his springs are bad(this is a thread about lowering springs) Plus,he said his car was a 2011. Doubt it needs struts and shocks.
I think he just wants to change springs to lower it and get a better stance.
From the page prior: The OP stated.....

Originally Posted by capp002
Yea mine is already lowered I'm real familiar with driving lowered cars. I'm just trying to match the springs I have in there.the springs in the car now are binding and sound bad.
Maybe he's talking about another "car' but I took it as he was talking about the HHR......


Originally Posted by chefhhr
Mine didn't need an alignment after the drop...went to get one, they stuck it on the rack, everything spec'd out and I gave them the $60 for nothing
I can do that with my old car since I've done it a few times. Sure it can be done but most people screw something up causing a need for an alignment. It's still a smart thing to do.



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