Decided to replace my ball joints and lower control arm rear bushings. Left side off in 10 min. Right side rear bolt will not come out, it will loosen a bit and then it springs back with the rubber bushing. Assuming the bolt is seized to the bushing and not the threaded nut? Have it soaked with Kroil but still no luck. What is the HHR.Net way to get the bolt out?

Thanks in advance.
Phil

 

This might help
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...says-no-51562/

 

I use a lot of PB Blaster and a 6 point 1/2 inch drive 21 mm socket on my 25 inch long 1/2 drive breaker bar , with my aluminum floor jack handle as a cheater bar, it’s slow but it gets the job done!
Some cut the bolt an then remove the lca, and if you’re lucky you can grab the rest of the bolt with vide grips.

 

Thank you, the thread link was what I needed, tried a search before posting. Will give it another try this morning, hoping for a Kroil miracle overnight. It's doubtful my dealer has a bolt in stock.

 

I bet the bolt is in stock or a day away.

 

Dealer did not have a bolt in stock, but, the good news is the bolt unscrewed this morning with very minimal effort, Guessing the Kroil did it's magic overnight. What a relief.
Next question. The Moog problem solver rear LCA bushings have a bevel to guide in the new bushing. Does it matter which side of the LCA that I press the bushing into?

 

yes.

 

I press them down from the top.

 

Thanks Guys. I called MOOG and they said the bushing is the same on each end and it matters not, which side of the LCA that you press it into as long as the Chamfer goes in first.
Just finished the car, new sway bar bushings, LCA bushings and ball joints. and top engine mount. Went ahead and torqued the rear shocks along with all the suspensions bolts. Hopefully the ride home will be quiet. The MOOG problem solver parts were pricey and a lot of work, but, felt it was the best way to go.

 

It is, I’ve been using the problem solver bushings for several years now.