Sway bar end links review
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 08-03-2010
Posts: 3,564
From: Lake Ronkonkoma, N.Y.
Sway bar end links review
I like many others had the dreaded "rattle".
When I bought the SS with 20K it was there.
In removing the nut's off the ball studs of the OEM link I found using the wrench/vice grip method didn't work well as the vice grip is trying to bite onto the hardened ball stud.
I used a right angle die grinder and a 4" cut off wheel to cut the stud off.
Used the MOOG K750428 links, the part has the grease fittings installed on the side of the ball socket, which might be an update to the end links that have the 90* grease fitting on the end cap.
Installing the new links isn't bad at all to do. The ball stud has a large square on it for a wrench to hold it.
If I knew the thread size of the stud I would have used hardened standard nuts and lock washers to make the install easier than using the self locking nuts supplied with the new links.
I used a synthetic bearing grease as the lube because I had it on hand.
Went back to an area where I always heard the "rattle" and it's gone.
I'll have to agree with a lot of other people, if you have the "rattle", change the sway bar links first.
When I bought the SS with 20K it was there.
In removing the nut's off the ball studs of the OEM link I found using the wrench/vice grip method didn't work well as the vice grip is trying to bite onto the hardened ball stud.
I used a right angle die grinder and a 4" cut off wheel to cut the stud off.
Used the MOOG K750428 links, the part has the grease fittings installed on the side of the ball socket, which might be an update to the end links that have the 90* grease fitting on the end cap.
Installing the new links isn't bad at all to do. The ball stud has a large square on it for a wrench to hold it.
If I knew the thread size of the stud I would have used hardened standard nuts and lock washers to make the install easier than using the self locking nuts supplied with the new links.
I used a synthetic bearing grease as the lube because I had it on hand.
Went back to an area where I always heard the "rattle" and it's gone.
I'll have to agree with a lot of other people, if you have the "rattle", change the sway bar links first.
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 40,038
From: Welland,Ont Canada
Great news, now keep those greased every oil change, the grease seeks on the side make it easier to just turn the wheels and you can access them!
Now be careful not to try and pump grease into the brake caliper bleed screw!
Now be careful not to try and pump grease into the brake caliper bleed screw!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 08-03-2010
Posts: 3,564
From: Lake Ronkonkoma, N.Y.
My thought on the synthetic grease would be that it might protect the friction area of the ball and socket better than standard grease would. Yes greasing every oil change wouldn't hurt also.
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 40,038
From: Welland,Ont Canada
Just a pump or two !
My sons first time I let him grease the car by himself , he said"Dad, can you have a look, I can't get the nozzle to fit on two of the zerks"
Those were the brake bleeder screws!
My sons first time I let him grease the car by himself , he said"Dad, can you have a look, I can't get the nozzle to fit on two of the zerks"
Those were the brake bleeder screws!
Senior Member
Joined: 09-07-2008
Posts: 1,016
From: Mebane, NC
Platinum Member
Joined: 12-06-2009
Posts: 11,720
From: Alabama
My sway bar links are tight and don't make any noise. BUT..............you folks make these new and improved links sound so much better.
Heck. I may just go ahead and change mine out now. Nothing like a little preventative maintenance .
( Well, that and too much spare time on my hands after retirement. )
Heck. I may just go ahead and change mine out now. Nothing like a little preventative maintenance .
( Well, that and too much spare time on my hands after retirement.
)
