Anyone had to resurface or turn their slotted or cross drilled rotors? I've read up a bit on them. Some say just scuff them since they shouldn't warp, others say I would have to take them to a machine shop to have them turned. Whats your guys' take on this? I'm doin a bit of research before getting some, and if its a pain in the rear to maintain them, then I will find a better way to keep my stock rotors cooler.

 

Unless you drive VERY, VERY aggressively (probably beyond the capabilities of the HHR), the slotted, drilled rotors WILL NOT keep your rotors cooler.!!!

It's your turn......."hyper".

 

What do you mean by "resurface or turn"? I don't have a brake lathe in my garage, so I would have to take my rotors to a shop to have them turned, if you mean having then made "non-directional" that's a little different and may require a very well equipped and knowledgeable machine shop. Even though the "service manual" lists a "resurfacing tool", I REALLY doubt that any Mr. Goodwrench would have a clue.

Basically, if you don't race the car on a road track regularly and adjust the rear brakes regularly don't worry about warping. If they are warped/worn, anyplace that turns rotors could do the job, billions of rotors have been just turned, and not resurfaced! Slotted and dimpled makes no difference to the machine.

And, the only difference in performance is the "cool look". I think the babes like the "groovey" and "dimpled" guys , don't know for sure!

 

resurface/turn... same thing. some people call it different things. what I mean is when I replace your pads, I usually take the rotors down to Oreillys and have them put em on the brake lathe and knock the glaze off of em so the pads have a fresh, flat surface to work with. I wasnt sure if there were any special steps that needed to be taken with slotted or cross drilled rotors. I need something better than stock. The stock rotors are already starting to shimmy a bit. I'm not hard on them by any means, no hot rodding here. Here in Dallas, it's not uncommon to have to come to a complete stop in 5 ft on the freeways because of stupid drivers and traffic. I modulate the brakes as much as I can after hard braking to let them cool a bit, but once they got a wiggle to 'em, it just got progressively worse no matter what I did.

 

Part of the shimmy issue with the HHR is that the "self-adjusting" rear brakes don't self adjust..... Manual adjustment of rear brakes and a good quality rotor up front like the top of the line Napa part will do you well. The drilled/slotted stuff really wouldn't help this situation.

 

They mean the same thing. Turning a rotor or drum is "machining" the braking "surface". And if you are changing the surface by machining then you have essentially RESURFACED the rotor or drum.

OP if you really want to get aftermarket rotors get dimpled or slotted but don't bother with drilled. Drilled rotors will have more chance of cracking if they are not done right. But if they are what you want then get them, it is your car not those answering your thread.

As for turning slotted or dimpled rotors the turning of them will take down the depth of said dimple/slot and could remove it completely if turned too much. As for drilled I am not sure I would want to turn them as they need all the remaining material that they have to keep from cracking.

 

Slotted rotors can be turned, resurfaced, refaced or machined. What ever you call it, it can be done.

 

This might be time for me to ask the question - "How do you guys adjust your rear brakes" I had my guy put rear brakes on my car and I had way too much pedal. They warped my front brakes in no time. He had "forgotten" to adjust them - probably assuming they would self-adjust, which they did not do.

So, do you tighten them (rear brakes) till they won't turn then back them off a turn or two? More? Less?

I'm trying to keep this "on topic" and hope it falls into line of the warped rotor issue.

 

There is a whole thread on rear adjustment. And that is the main reason rotors get warped. Be sure to check the control arm bushings, too, they make a shudder upon hard braking also!


In regard to "re-surfacing"/turning/machining, etc. being the same thing. GM warns that you should only have a "non-directional" surface on the rotors, new rotors normally are non-directional, after you turn them on a lathe they become "directional". There is a tool made to apply non-directionality, it is sort of like a random orbit machine tool. If you look at a new rotor, you can see the orbits. I have never heard of anyone doing it routinely and do not really care myself, just there is a subtle difference.

 

The reason I was considering the slotted rotors was because they help a bit in braking and Ive heard they stay a bit cooler under braking than standard rotors. I don't want them to warp after one hard stop, and it is not uncommon to have to go from 70 to a stop fast with the way people drive here on the freeway. I appreciate the input you guys. I may just go with some good quality rotors, and if that doesn't work, I'll step up to the slotted rotors. Definitely gonna adjust the rears.