I didn't realize it was an SS either, but must be honest, wasn't aware that SS is standard with 4 wheel disks.

 

Go with the EBC Red they are a top quality pad. Hawk is also an equal quality. I use both on my vehicles.

Rotors just use a Bendix or other OE quality solid rotor. That is unless you like the holes. Drilled and dimples are not going to solve your issues. They are cosmetic and will only cost you more money unless you want the look.

The real key is to bed or seat the pads once they are installed. Few people bed or seat them in including mechanics. This leads to the issue where material is uneven on the surface of the rotor and it will make the brakes pulse. Also check your hub bearing run out as Rotor Thickness Variation is often the second most common reason for the pulse.

Read the other threads on this as it will show you many treat this as a warp issues and find it keeps coming back. The reason is generally it is not a warp issue and the real issue was never corrected.

On a SS just make sure to use the E brake a few times a week and it will keep the rear calipers adjusted up. If not you will get a low pedal over time. Drum guys it is different and will result in less pad force if they are out of adjustment. They do need to keep the rears adjusted up.

Also read the tech areas on most brake web sites as they address these issues and dispell many web myths.

Note too bedding the pads will vary from brand to brand. Most are similar just the speeds and cycles will vary. Note too EBC has a material on the pads that will seat them in for you in the first week of driving. Just read the instructions and follow what they recomend.

 

I did not either.

 

The cruise control issue could be something as simple as the brake lights are not working.

Depending on the mileage on the car, be sure to check the control arm bushings, worn out bushings cause a similar shudder. Wheel hubs/bearings could also cause a shudder. I am just getting at it's not Always the rotors warping. You need to prove the warping with a runout gauge, replacing the rotors is just the "easiest" first thing to correct.

Did they also turn or replace the rear rotors? Could be the problem.

 

I've done aftermarket pads and drilled rotors, went back to EBC pads, and AC Delco Premium Premium Rotors.

The problem with rotors is not with the rotor but usually with the pad. Lifetime pads and ceramics are much much harder than the rotor. I chewed through a set of rotors with little to no wear on the pads. You are better off have a slightly softer pad, yes dust is an issue, but pads are cheaper in the long run over rotors.

As stated EBC makes a good pad, and other than looks, drilled or slotted really isn't that much of an improvement, and lets face it if you are heating up rotors like a race car does, then $300 for a set of rotors isn't enough, they will crack under expansion. seen it done on an SCCA 'balt. It literly froze up one of his wheels, and twisted the A-arms and broke the left drive shaft. About 12 hours and $1800 damage. He went back to regular pads and slightly beefier rotors, and says his braking is better than when he had ceramics, and no real bad heat glazing or fade. My Buddy Jason is anal about this stuff, and incendently is the MGR for Budget Brakes, so he ought to know.

 

I don't think it is so much an issue with Ceramic pads as much as the quality of the pads.

Many companies claim Kevlar and Ceramic pads but few post the content or how much is ceramic and how much is filler in the pads. There is no law or regulation that requires them to post pad content volumes of materials.

You will find many poor perfroming pads to contain high volumes of cheap fillers that can be anything from cheap carbon or even many kinds of metals. These pads can cause the pulse by having material stick to the rotors.

While you can get the same kind of material pads for $19.99 it does not mean it is in the same quality or quanitiy as EBC or Hawk.

The pads on the SS I find are not the best in the world. They are good for quiet and smooth but they have high wear and don't deal with heat well. I also am sure they are cheap to keep production cost down. Pads are like OE tires and they don't always use the best available.

 

dealer says 3rd brake light LEDs are the cause of it not working .i had front rotrs & pads replaced with NAPA ultra premium rotors & adaptive1 pads ,so far so good .its only been a couple of days. kustom shop told me they might have a solutin for LEDs.

 

Seat them in or you stand a change of problems 5K-15K miles later.

 

shouldnt the tech at dealer seat them in. (not sure what that means) also which superbright LEDS (3RD BRAKE LIGHTS) LET CRUISE CONTROL WORK PROPERLY

 

They should but very few do. To do so they need to take it out for a good drive and make a series of stops. Few will take the time as under flat rate they lose money doing so. Also many good mechanics also do not really understand how improtant it is to do so. When the results of not bedding or seating the pads result the car is often 8,000 miles down the road and they never catch the blame.

Read and do this. http://www.hawkperformance.com/faq.php

The first 100 miles can effect the long term use of your brakes. Bedding or seating is something that many just no longer do and is just important today as years ago. This is a large part of the issues with brakes today, along with poor quality pads and ball bearing front hubs.

Just because you or someone knows how to put pads on does not mean it was done correctly. I see many make the same mistakes today.

Note there can be a little difference in how to seat the pads but most will do what you need to do. The object is to get a good lining of pad material on the rotors and this will prevent most of the issues many get with the brake shudder. Also use high quality pads. All pads are not to the same standard even many name brands. They may say ceramic but how much did they really use. Few will tell you and many will use more cheap fillers to keep the price down. Pads are one area cheaper is not better. You get what you pay for.