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-   -   When did you replace sway bar bushings and links (https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brakes-%7C-suspension-%7C-shocks-%7C-struts-24/when-did-you-replace-sway-bar-bushings-links-56616/)

Cat Man HHR 03-26-2016 08:05 AM

When did you replace sway bar bushings and links
 
I've been reading on the dreaded clunk in the front end. One of the most common things to fix is the bushings and links for the sway bar.
Would like to know at what mileage was this repair done to solve the noise?
What brand part was the best to install?
I have a 2010 SS with 32K and when I bought it with 20K it had the rattle/clunk.

firemangeorge 03-26-2016 08:21 AM

Mine has 46k miles and no rattles or clunks from the front end parts. I've been under there and checked everything a couple of times. Firm and snug. No signs of worn or loose parts.
My opinion is that mine will probably go many miles before needing anything replaced. The reasoning being that I don't drive mine in wet weather. I believe that the ones that suffer premature wear are because of the elements.
Wet roads mix with the dirt and grit then get splashed up onto the suspension parts.
Just my opinion here but I honestly think that the way HHR suspension is designed that there is some truth to this.

Silverfox 03-26-2016 11:06 AM

Makes sense to me.

Dirt, sand, grime, salt and chemicals can work there way into many critical areas and cause premature wear and deterioration.

I also think driving on lots of rough and damage roads/hiways, especially at higher speeds with hard and constant impacts can be an issue.

There are some owners without enough respect for their HHR's that drive like maniacs stressing all parts resulting in premature damage and wear.

Bottom line ... To many variables to set an exact time or mileage to change out front end parts.

The obvious answer would be when you start having a problem unless you want to be Pro-Active.

SF

Oldblue 03-27-2016 08:49 AM

I replaced mine at 65,000 miles , I now have 210,000 miles so the polyurethane bushings last awhile longer!

Cat Man HHR 03-28-2016 04:54 AM

Steve
Did you replace both sway bar bushings and links at that time?
What brand parts did you use?
Is the rattle/clunk gone or lesser of a noise?
Thanks

BDR1973 03-28-2016 08:06 AM

I replaced my sway bar bushing with DOORMAN part and MOOG sway bar links (w/grease fittings). I still have the rattle/clunk going on over bumps but not all bumps. Car has 120,000 miles on it and will replace the shocks next. Bushing on control arms looked good.

Oldblue 03-28-2016 08:08 AM

My clunk turned out to be the rear LCA bushings, at that time I pressed in new GM rubber bushings, but back to the swaybar!
I used Moog end links with the grease nipples ( zerks) and Energy Suspension polyurethane 25mm greaseable sway bar bushings.
I installed 90 degree zerks to point out to the ball joints for easy greasing.

Oldblue 03-28-2016 08:13 AM

1 Attachment(s)
BDR1973, so did my bushings on the LCA, when I removed the LCA they fell apart that's the OEM on the right and a Moog problem solver K200792 on the left

Front Control Arm Bushings - Chevrolet Cobalt

Cat Man HHR 03-28-2016 06:20 PM


Originally Posted by Oldblue (Post 799919)
but back to the swaybar!
I used Moog end links with the grease nipples ( zerks)

Having not seen the Moog part. Would you say the ball and socket on it is more robust then the OEM?
I do believe in MOOG parts as a quality item.
I looked in the Energy Suspension catalog under the universal sway bar bushings and found the one to use for a 23mm bar that is used on the SS. Part number is 9.5159, suffix G is black and R is red. These are the ones with grease fittings also.

Oldblue 03-29-2016 08:18 AM

Yes 23 mm for the SS
Yes the Moog bushing bearing is much more robust!

Cat Man HHR 03-29-2016 06:06 PM


Originally Posted by Oldblue (Post 800013)
Yes the Moog bushing bearing is much more robust!

Thanks for the info.

donbrew 03-31-2016 07:54 AM

My 2011 still has tight factory parts at 230,000 miles.

kamikaze3557 04-02-2018 07:38 AM


Originally Posted by Oldblue (Post 799919)
My clunk turned out to be the rear LCA bushings, at that time I pressed in new GM rubber bushings, but back to the swaybar!
I used Moog end links with the grease nipples ( zerks) and Energy Suspension polyurethane 25mm greaseable sway bar bushings.
I installed 90 degree zerks to point out to the ball joints for easy greasing.

Old Blue,
Do you remember where you got your sway bar bushings? or part # I have a 2010 1LT 2.2 and think? the 25 mm fits mine and I like the idea of greaseable, when I have the bushings replaced I want to have the best set for them to put on.

Thanks ,MIke

Looks like the 1" are the equivalent to 25mm? found them at advance auto parts. Like the idea of 90deg zerks fittings!

Oldblue 04-02-2018 08:30 AM

I used the 1” Energy Suspension polyurethane greaseable. 9-5161.
I have since switched back to a 25 mm bushing OEM style

kamikaze3557 04-02-2018 09:36 AM


Originally Posted by Oldblue (Post 841306)
I used the 1” Energy Suspension polyurethane greaseable. 9-5161.
I have since switched back to a 25 mm bushing OEM style


OldBlue,

Any reason you switched back?

Thanks,
Mike

Oldblue 04-02-2018 11:21 AM

The 1 inch polyurethane bushings started to rattle about a week after greasing them.
These 25mm bushings from Moog are tight and quiet.

Silverfox 04-02-2018 04:33 PM

I just replaced the Sway bar bushings with GM OEM. @ 30,000 miles along with Moog End links w/grease fittings.

It seemed a little noisy right at the first with a few strange noises but then settled down quickly and now the front end feels Solid and Quiet. I lubed the bushings with Silicone Grease before installing.

The OEM bushings were a tight fit.

Silverfox

Pressureangle 04-07-2018 07:25 PM

Prothane LCA bushings
 
Just did mine today, at ~102,000 miles. I've had symptoms for 10-12,000 miles.
I installed Prothane urethane bushings, I just posted the easy way to do them elsewhere in the forum.

Jpak88 06-11-2018 09:49 PM

I had to get mine replaced about 2 years ago, had maybe 40-45k miles on it. I noticed the noise gradually coming back for the past couple months, now is definitely back at 67k on it. I know that's not very long, but my town had a lot of roadwork done, still has lots of potholes. Also it's a really dusty town so mud will get in there a lot, AND in the winter there's a looooooad of salt on the roads. All this put together, I'm not too shocked this is happening again. I dropped it off at my old mechanic tonight for him to check out tomorrow, but I'm fairly confident this is the problem again.


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