As I stated, I used two of the same part number, the axles are the same.
My stub shafts did not pop out.

 

Okay, so on Oldblue you didnt have to bother with transferring stub shafts. How are the Cardone axles holding up? they seem to "at least from pictures) seem to have less "ribs" on the boots. Are they quality and churning along well? At 40 dollars or so each the price is right VS OEM at 150 dollars plus.

 

The ribs on the boots are important! be sure the new axle has the same number as the old.

I got new axles that had too few ribs, the cracked in short order. I think rebuilt is best, everything (moving parts) is new except the shaft.

 

The Cardone had the same ribs in the boots as the OEM.
Great for the price, no issues at all

 

Awesome. This weekend we are going to do the highly controversial "run the car in drive while the front end is lifted" test to see if the axles are turning as they should. Also to watch the front tires to determine if they might be the problem. As of now, only two parts in the front end are original, the wheel bearings and axles. Tires are old, nearly at the end of their life, but have been balanced MANY times. I pondered about an Axle causing steering wheel shake between 55 and 70, smooths out below 55 and above 70, and my dad said it is either axles or tires but with the mileage he thinks axles.

 

That can also be the upper engine mount! If the brackets have 3/4 of an inch or less between them it’s shot!
Another safe bet is the hubs.

 

The diameter of the axles is too small to make a harmonic vibration.

I don't know what you might prove by running in gear raised. It will make noise, set an ABS/TC warning, possibly damage something

Is the outside rib of the tires wearing funny, kind of bumpy? That is bearings. When they are worn it allows the tire to wobble, the cause of many "warped rotor" complaints.

 

You could try jacking up Gregg in a non controversial way. What I mean is jack it up by the suspension instead of the body, so the front end doesn't hang free. Like you would a pickup truck by jacking under the rear axle.
Granted I haven't looked under there for a jacking point, but I've done this on other cars. I did this with my daughters Honda Civic when looking for a similar problem. Her's turned out to be a bad tire.

A little caution. If you try this way. Be careful that you don't turn the wheels and knock the car off the jack.

 

I tried to tell that to my dad about the Axle not being able to cause a vibration like that, or it at the very least would vibrate more violently since the diameter is much smaller than the tire meaning it is spinning at a faster rate than the tire itself. MY guess was tires or bearings, his is tires or axles. I have repeated to him a few times my concern about running it in gear off the ground; he said to avoid issue to do it in low gear, which disable traction control anyway. I dont know, like I said its been narrowed down to just a few things. I could just never drive above 55 LOL. I need new tires soon anyway, so buying them wouldn't be throwing money at the problem. The vibration was VIOLENT at highway speeds the first drive after getting a set of new tires. I threw them on the back and the vibration is still there but not as significant. I might get lucky with new tires. I tried the "shake" test for wheel bearings and both sides were solid save for the sloppy steering rack (which was replaced and needed to be).

 

If the shake is between 55 and 70, how is running in low gear going to simulate that? Just sounds like a bad idea, unless you do like FMG suggested. Alex, how many times have you read on here, "my dad just won't listen"? Has it ever turned out well?

My manual trans, TC is active in 1st gear. I don't know why it would be off in low, that's when the tires are most likely to spin. Just postulating, I could be wrong.

These are the original hubs, at over 200,000 miles?